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Visitors to the modern Jewish state in its fifth decade no longer need to ponder the old question: "Where shall we eat tonight?"

The limited choice of restaurants in the early years of austerity and gastronomic innocence have long since given way to the selection of 200 top restaurants described in the recently published 1996 Gault-Millau Israel Guide.

It is a recognition of the presently high state of gastronomy in Israel that Gault-Millau, a panel of food experts who have pioneered in promoting La Nouvelle Cuisine in France, have now undertaken to survey the Israeli cuisine scene with the same measure of professionalism, impartiality and expertise.

What follows are, in essence, their comments on major restaurants in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, the country's largest cities; their remarks are fused with the observations of several American gourmet gurus who also follow developments with discerning eyes and sensitive palates.

As one critic, disclaiming objectivity, told me: "These are not made by, or on behalf of, the Israel Ministry of Tourism. And we think they're unfailingly accurate!"

The quality of restaurants in Tel Aviv, where we start our tour, runs, within few blocks, from the deplorable to the dependable to the divine, with a much greater emphasis on the latter.

"Deplorable" is, indeed, the best word to describe that growing, worldwide phenomenon that has now encroached on a hitherto-pristine Eretz Israel: Planet Hollywood, which you can find, or avoid, on Hayarkon Street, near the big beachfront hotels.

As a foretaste of what the third millennium holds for humankind, Planet Hollywood is a one-time experience everyone should endure.

Unwary diners climb stairs into a huge room, aglitter with flashing lights, awash with the incessant boom of Top-40 recordings and ablossoming with plastic palm trees. Amid the din, you shout an order for hamburgers, fries or other specialties of the house; and, while waiting to be served, you wander around the dining area to see the wondrous movie-based artifacts on display.

Enshrined in glass cases are such treasures as a more-than-lifesize statue of Arnold Schwarzenegger — one of the founders of Planet Hollywood — dressed in the bloodied armor he donned as The Terminator. Another case holds the genuine, striped boxing shorts which Sylvester Stallone — another founding father — actually wore as Rocky. A third, the Holy of Holies, displays the original and authentic Tablets of the Law, the Ten Commandments, which Charlton Heston brought down from a mock-up of Mount Sinai to the waiting throng of Central Casting Israelites.

As our tour guide, not in the least embarrassed, explained to us as we bit into our burgers: "Israel has something for everybody. And if you're not a teenager, that's your problem!"

"Dependable" is the reassuring thought for those teenagers who can't afford the high-priced hamburgers at the Planet. Immediately next door is Israel's first McDonald's — there are now half a dozen — where the kids can enjoy the same high-cholesterol junk foods and feel they've never left home.

Neither McDonald's, which serves kosher meat, nor the Planet has kosher certification, what with cheeseburgers and Saturday operation. But McDonald's, which formerly rejected Israel-grown potatoes as "not up to McDonald's' worldwide standard," has introduced its own seeds to Israeli farmers — who now supply the chain with the appropriate spuds, by the truckload.

McDavid's, a kosher look-alike, has been operating in Israel for years, long before the advent of McDonald's.

"Divine," finally, is the operative word, for a number of Tel Aviv restaurants that feature not only indigenous potatoes but a great variety of other grown-in-Israel food products, from beef to broccoli.

Capot Tmarim ("Bunches of Grapes") is one of several highly-recommended establishments. One of our experts describes Capot as "truly great, perhaps the finest example of the `nouvelle Israeli' cuisine, with little of the silliness."

Owner-chef Ofer Gal has transformed a classic Bauhaus building into one of Tel Aviv's most glamorous and stately restaurants: old tiles, spare walls, splendid service, Armenian pottery — and extraordinarily creative food. It's quite expensive and, all the critics agree, well worth the cost: 60 Ahad Haam St.; (03) 566-3166.

Tapuach Zahav ("The Golden Apple") is often considered Tel Aviv's, and Israel's, "best." Its owner-chef-food critic, Israel Aharoni, has converted the living room of an art-nouveau mansion into an elegant and delightful dining room. The service is muted and attentive, and the food truly sensational. It's also expensive and, also, well worth it: 42 Montefiore St.; (03) 566-3486.

Keren is imbued with the special magic of history. It is located in an enormous house known as the American Colony. One can eat either indoors in polished-floored, spare-walled, post-modern simplicity or on the spacious, wrap-around verandahs. The cuisine is perhaps the closest to French of the "big three," and invariably superb. Expensive and worth it: 122 Eilat St., in Jaffa; (03) 518-1358.

Along the picturesque waterfront in Old Jaffa is Babai-in-the-Port, a simple eatery that served mezze ( a variety of Mideastern hors d'oeuvres), fresh-fried local fish and was considered the best.

Stick to the simpler dishes, gaze at the fishing boats alongside and relish what is still the best in town: (03) 681-8795.

Of Jerusalem's "big three," the Ocean is considered the best. It is outrageously expensive. This escalation might be tolerable, were it not accompanied by a major attitude.

Nevertheless, the Ocean, set in an old house in the newly gentrified Nahlat Shiva neighborhood, serves seafood and meat dishes creatively, elegantly and opulently, and with nouvelle Israeli flair.

The Ocean is casually chic, attracting upper-bracket Israelis, tourists, celebrities and diplomats from all over. The maitre d' will inform you, discreetly, that Warren Christopher loves the Ocean — but, then, who wouldn't, when we taxpayers pick up his tab! 7 Rivlin St.; (02) 624-7501.

Some consider the Taverna the most elegant and grand of all Israel restaurants. Service is a performance, with waiters swooping open the copper-domed platters to reveal their succulent contents. One dines beside a fireplace, sips thick, after-dinner Turkish coffee and puffs on Havana cigars.

The Taverna's cuisine is très haute, with touches of native herbs and spices. The Tavern is vastly expensive, but compared to the Ocean, the prices are très McDonald's.

Third of Jerusalem's "big three" is the Eukaliptus. Owner-chef Moshe Bassou specializes in Levantine, "Land of Israel" cuisine. It's the nouvelle Israeli style. Bassou uses a variety of herbs, plants and vegetables indigenous to the surrounding Judean Hills.

The dishes Bassou creates are invariably excellent; service is fast and friendly, but a good interior decorator could do much to embellish the currently tacky dining hall ambiance: 7 Harkness St.; (02) 624-4331.

Bon appetit!