Have a Nosh Facebook Twitter Email SMS WhatsApp Share By J. Correspondent | August 20, 2009 Sign up for Weekday J and get the latest on what's happening in the Jewish Bay Area. Kosher food Chaim Davids wants you to forget the stereotypes of kosher food. “We’re meeting and exceeding expectations on what kosher food can do,” says the Kitchen Table’s chef de cuisine. What is so revolutionary about the Mountain View restaurant? For starters, bacon is on the menu. Using smoked lamb, the Kitchen Table gives Jewish traditionalists a chance to try the popular (and quite non-kosher) American treat. Aside from the faux-pork products, the restaurant, which opened in May, offers a friendly atmosphere for customers. “The décor is elegant, but unpretentious,” Davids says. The biggest challenge for the Kitchen Table, and any kosher restaurant, is that it must close for the Sabbath on Friday and Saturday nights, the two most popular dining-out nights. “We make up for it because we’re a hot spot and people want to come,” Davids says. “We’re almost reinventing the restaurant business.” With an extensive to-go menu, Sabra Grill in San Francisco makes eating kosher easier. Not in a rush? Grab a seat and sample Sabra’s wide-range of choices, including omelettes, steaks, sandwiches and fish. Aside from the three course dinner special for under $17, what sets Oakland’s Holy Land Restaurant apart is its catering. Holy Land will cater to any occasion and will make a custom menu for any client. Shangri-La Chinese Vegetarian Restaurant in San Francisco, Oakland Kosher Foods and Izzy’s Brooklyn Bagels in Palo Alto came in second. First Place San Francisco Sabra Grill (415) 982-3656 www.sabragrill.com East Bay Holy Land Restaurant Oakland (510) 272-0535 www.holylandrestaurant.com South Bay/Peninsula The Kitchen Table Mountain View (650) 390-9388 www.thekitchentablerestaurant.com Second Place San Francisco Shangri-La Chinese Vegetarian Restaurant (415) 731-2548 shangri-la.wp.net East Bay Oakland Kosher Foods Oakland (510) 839-0177 South Bay/Peninsula Izzy’s Brooklyn Bagels Palo Alto (650) 329-0700 www.izzysbrooklynbagels.com Jewish-style deli The Jewish deli is the last great bastion of Jewish culture in America. While the Mecca of Jewish delis may be New York, quality Reubens and tasty matzah balls can be found right here in the Bay Area. Saul’s Deli in Berkeley is dishing up all the classics and then some — but isn’t trying to imitate New York delis. “It’s the old world,” says owner Karen Adelman. “It’s before New York.” With falafel, corned beef, pastrami, matzah ball soup and bagels, Saul’s has the “whole of the Jewish timeline.” Couple those favorites with sodas made in-house and grass-fed beef, it’s no wonder Saul’s holds a special spot in East Bay customers’ hearts. A tradition around the Bay since 1982, Max’s feels like a direct transplant from the East Coast. “We’re pretty authentic,” says general manager Michael Adams. “Some of our sauces are flown in from New York.” Max’s keeps it simple — Reuben sandwiches with a choice of corned beef or pastrami, matzah ball soup and potato salad are the clear-cut favorites. “You get what you pay for,” Adams says. “You get a big sandwich.” Perhaps the biggest testament to Max’s popularity is the lack of change. “We’ve been serving the same sandwiches the same way for over 25 years,” Adams said. In second place were Miller’s East Coast Deli in San Francisco, Oakland Kosher Foods, Izzy’s Brooklyn Bagels in Palo Alto and Mangia/Nosh in San Rafael. First Place San Francisco/South Bay/Peninsula/North Bay Max’s Various locations www.maxsworld.com East Bay Saul’s Deli Berkeley (510) 848-3354 www.saulsdeli.com Second Place San Francisco Miller’s East Coast Deli (415) 563-3542 www.millersdelisf.com East Bay Oakland Kosher Foods Oakland (510) 839-0177 South Bay/Peninsula Izzy’s Brooklyn Bagels Palo Alto (650) 329-0700 www.izzysbrooklynbagels.com North Bay Mangia/Nosh San Rafael (415) 472-2894 www.mangianosh.com Italian restaurant and pizza For many, Italian cooking means traditional cuisine that doesn’t change much over the years. Not the case at Delfina in San Francisco. “We’re always changing things up and always trying to improve,” says chef Craig Stoll. “Never been a restaurant to stay stagnant.” With pastas that are handmade daily and product that “is raised and grown by people with names,” Delfina is still a classic Italian restaurant at heart. “Since the menu always changes, there are things that are very user-friendly and things that are understood by almost everyone,” Stoll says. “And there are things on the menu that slightly more adventurous people may prefer.” With 17 locations throughout the Peninsula and South Bay, Pizza My Heart makes getting quality pizza easy. Pizza My Heart offers a wide range of award winning pizzas for under $20. That’s not even the best deal: For $5, customers can get a slice of pizza and a Pizza My Heart T-shirt. At Lo Coco’s in Berkeley and San Rafael, it’s not all about the pizza, but that’s what the Sicilian-style restaurant is best known for. While not for everyone, the anchovy pizza is the restaurant’s true specialty. Take-out is available, but the staff and décor make dining at Lo Coco’s is as close as it gets to a vacation to Italy — at least in this economy. Pizzeria Picco in Larkspur and Amici’s, with various locations in San Francisco and the East Bay, came in second. First Place San Francisco Delfina (415) 552-4055 www.delfinasf.com East Bay Lo Coco’s Restaurant Berkeley (510) 843-3745 www.lococospizzeria.com South Bay/Peninsula Pizza My Heart Various locations www.pizzamyheart.com North Bay Lo Coco’s Restaurant San Rafael (415) 472-3323 Second Place San Francisco/East Bay Amici’s Various locations www.amicis.com North Bay Pizzeria Picco Larkspur (415) 945-8900 www.pizzeriapicco.com Hamburger So what if burger joints aren’t kosher? They’re delicious — and j. readers know exactly which ones are their favorites. The Counter is a burger experience unlike any other. It doesn’t have a menu in the traditional sense, but rather, it has combinations — over 312,000 of them. Four different choices of burger, 10 cheeses, 28 toppings, 18 sauces and three buns mean the chefs almost never make the same burger twice in a day. “The Counter concept itself is different from any other hamburger joint out there,”says director of marketing Brian Berman. “You guys are the real visionaries of what you put in your mouth, not the chef.” The Counter has two South Bay locations (Palo Alto and San Jose), and is opening a new location in Town Center Corte Madera in late August. At Phyllis’ Giant Burgers in Novato, San Rafael and Santa Rosa, it’s all about options. With a massive menu, featuring endless variations on a classic dish (pesto or terimushroom burger, anyone?), Phyllis’ has a little something for everyone — even vegans. Only in the Bay Area would a hamburger joint serve Chinese chicken salads and a Moroccan plate. But loyal customers know what makes the Barney’s Gourmet Hamburgers experience is — what else? — the burgers. Classic burgers, chicken burgers, turkey burgers — Barney’s is putting its own spin on the American staple with its locations in almost every corner of the Bay. In second place were Taylor’s Automatic Refresher in San Francisco, Fat Apple’s Restaurant & Bakery in Berkeley and El Cerrito, and Jeffrey’s Hamburgers in San Mateo and Menlo Park. First Place San Francisco/East Bay Barney’s Gourmet Hamburgers Various locations www.barneyshamburgers.com South Bay/Peninsula The Counter Various locations www.thecounterburger.com North Bay Phyllis’ Giant Burgers Various locations www.phyllisgiantburgers.com Second Place San Francisco Taylor’s Automatic Refresher (415) 318-3423 www.taylorsautomaticrefresher.com East Bay Fat Apple’s Restaurant & Bakery Various locations (510) 526-2260 South Bay/Peninsula Jeffrey’s Hamburgers Various locations www.jeffreyshamburgers.com California cuisine What exactly is California cuisine? It’s tough to define — and perhaps that is why j. readers’ favorite restaurants dishing up fine California cuisine are so different. At the Café on the Square, the term means updating classic dishes. “We take traditional Jewish favorites and put our own contemporary twist on them,” says chef Tim Stewart. Located, appropriately, at the Contemporary Jewish Museum in San Francisco, Café on the Square draws inspiration from its surroundings. “As our menu is inspired by the exhibitions, we are able to really get creative,” Stewart says. Whether it’s a herring salad created for a Marc Chagall exhibit or a staple like matzah ball soup (over 350 gallons were sold in the first year), the Café provides unique dining for museum-goers or anyone looking for a high-quality, affordable lunch. At Rivoli Restaurant in Berkeley, owner Roscoe Skipper credits executive chef Wendy Brucker for giving his restaurant a distinct Califonia flare. “She’ll ask how can I fundamentally change this dish, but keep the flavors and make it interesting,” Skipper says. For example, Brucker may take a French onion soup and deconstruct it by throwing in caramelized onions and garlic bread crumbs. With customer favorites such as Portabello mushroom fritters and hot fudge sundaes, Rivoli has something for everyone. Owner Sondra Bernstein describes The Girl & the Fig’s menu as “country food with a French passion. We’re just using the best of Sonoma and combining it with a little bit of French technique,” she says. From unique items such as rabbit and panisse cakes to the classics like burgers “cooked with love,” The Girl & The Fig captures the spirit of Sonoma. At California Café in Palo Alto, it’s all about fresh, seasonal ingredients. Popular items include the Asian chicken salad, the lamb–butter lettuce wrap and the wild boar spare ribs. “Chef Taylor Boudreaux is part of the community,” says marketing manager Jen Gurvey. “People know him by name.” In second place were Town’s End Restaurant and Bakery in San Francisco, BayWolf Restaurant in Oakland, Mayfield Bakery & Café in Palo Alto and Ward Street Café in Larkspur. First Place San Francisco Café on the Square (415) 655-7800 www.thecjm.org East Bay Rivoli Restaurant Berkeley (510) 525-3832 www.rivolirestaurant.com South Bay/Peninsula California Café Palo Alto (650) 325-2233 www.californiacafe.com North Bay The Girl & the Fig Sonoma (707) 938-3634 www.thegirlandthefig.com Second Place San Francisco Town’s End Restaurant and Bakery (415) 512-0749 www.townsendrb.com East Bay BayWolf Restaurant Oakland (510) 655-6004 www.baywolf.com South Bay/Peninsula Mayfield Bakery & Café Palo Alto (650) 853-9200 www.mayfieldbakery.com North Bay Ward Street Café Larkspur (415) 924-2493 www.wardstreetcafe.com Bakery Challah. Bagels. Black and white cookies. Mmm, smells like Judaism. The Grand Bakery in Oakland is the type of old-school institution that is reminiscent of the Promised Land. “We are the community meeting place,” owner Bob Jaffe says proudly. Whether it’s the payment plan (no credit cards allowed, IOUs accepted), the memorabilia (baseball caps with team names written in Hebrew), or the atmosphere (sports trivia for free goods), the Grand Bakery takes customers back to a simpler time. Dishing up crowd favorites such as challah, cakes, pizza and hummus, the bakery is a hit for people of all ages. Just hearing the word cheesecake is enough to make some people’s mouths water. That probably explains why Sweet Cheeses Cheesecakes in San Anselmo — the winner for both San Francisco and the North Bay — is able to thrive selling cheesecakes almost exclusively. “We are a family-run, small bakery,” says owner Eamon Gallagher. “We pay attention to every detail.” The signature cheesecake is the French vanilla, but pumpkin flavor gives it a run for its money. In addition to the dozen different cheesecakes, the bakery also sells seasonally based tortes and tarts. At Have Your Cake in South San Francisco, owner Maralyn Tabatsky designs custom kosher cakes ranging from classic wedding cakes to a cake resembling a tunnel boring machine for an engineering company’s anniversary party. “I feel pretty fortunate I get to do both,” Tabatsky says. “I enjoy the elegance of the more traditional cakes, but I like to have the opportunity of doing things that are more unusual.” Masse’s in Berkeley, Copenhagen Bakery in Burlingame and Della Fattoria in Petaluma stole readers’ hearts (and taste buds) for second place. First Place San Francisco/North Bay Sweet Cheeses Cheesecakes San Anselmo (415) 457-2733 East Bay Grand Bakery Oakland (510) 465-1110 South Bay/Peninsula Have Your Cake South San Francisco (650) 873-8488 www.haveyourcake.org Second Place East Bay Masse’s Berkeley (510) 649-1004 www.massespastries.com South Bay/Peninsula Copenhagen Bakery Burlingame (650) 342-1357 www.copenhagenbakery.com North Bay Della Fattoria Petaluma (707) 763-0161 www.dellafattoria.com Specialty/gourmet market East Bay establishment Berkeley Bowl has been selling kosher foods for more than three decades. While Berkeley Bowl has a wide assortment of kosher foods, ranging from juices to marshmallows, the kosher selection only represents a small portion of the store’s product. “We’re a full line grocery store so we try to provide services in every area,” says owner Glenn Yasuda. At Piazza’s Fine Foods in the South Bay and Peninsula, the menu of gourmet sandwiches is virtually endless. Options include grilled salmon, Portabello mushroom, Mediterranean chicken, lamb, eggplant and fontina, muffaletta and about 35 others, all under $8. Over at Mollie Stone’s Markets, the selection is literally endless. “If the merchandise is available for sale in the U.S., we generally can get it delivered for our customers,” says co-owner David Bennett. Aside from the special delivery, Mollie Stone’s — with multiple locations in the winning San Francisco and North Bay regions — also produces its own products, including a line of organics. Mollie Stone’s also makes an effort to consistently provide kosher food. “We don’t just jump in the business during Passover and Chanukah,” Bennett says. The stores stock everything from kosher frozen foods to dairy products to poultry, and when it’s time to say l’chaim, they have a vast selection of kosher wines. In second place were Whole Foods Market in San Francisco, Rockridge Market Hall in Oakland, Draeger’s Market in the South Bay/Peninsula and Oliver’s Market in the North Bay. First Place San Francisco/North Bay Mollie Stone’s Various locations www.molliestones.com East Bay Berkeley Bowl Marketplace Berkeley (510) 843-6929 www.berkeleybowl.com South Bay/Peninsula Piazza’s Fine Foods Various locations www.piazzasfinefoods.com Second Place San Francisco Whole Foods Market www.wholefoodsmarket.com East Bay Rockridge Market Hall Oakland (510) 250-6010 www.rockridgemarkethall.com South Bay/Peninsula Draeger’s Market Various locations www.draegers.com North Bay Oliver’s Market Various locations www.oliversmarket.com California winery The wine industry may be becoming industrialized and dominated by large wineries, but our winners understand the importance of small-scale, hands-on wine-making. Benyamin Cantz is the owner, CEO, salesman, harvester, winemaker, bottler and every other position that goes into producing Four Gates wine. Located in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Four Gates Winery may be the smallest kosher winery in the country. While local j. readers appreciate the one-man winery’s attention to details, Four Gates is even more popular on the other coast. “My entire business is mail-order,” Cantz says. “I would say two-thirds goes to New York.” For a more traditional wine-tasting experience, j. readers continue to flock to Hagafen Cellars, which nabs its fifth straight Readers’ Choice award. With events featuring local artists and an array of more than 20 wines available for tasting, everyone from the most ardent wine connoisseur to Joe Six-pack can enjoy this Napa Valley winery. The high-quality wine is one of the few similarities Hagafen shares with other local wineries, though. “There’s a lot of pressure to grow and become a more modern Napa Valley winery,” says assistant winemaker Josh Stein. “It’s pushing back against the forces of modern Napa Valley. We like to think of ourselves as the little winery that could.” First Place South Bay/Peninsula Four Gates Winery Santa Cruz (831) 457-2673 www.fourgateswine.com North Bay Hagafen Cellars Napa (888) 424-2336 www.hagafen.com J. Correspondent Also On J. Bay Area Anti-Israel groups say S.F. schools canceled antisemitism training Bay Area Social media influencer Hen Mazzig to speak at S.F.'s Emanu-El Off the Shelf Mother and motherland are abandoned in Israeli novel Organic Epicure Check out this local caterer’s Sephardic dishes for Rosh Hashanah Subscribe to our Newsletter I would like to receive the following newsletters: Weekday J From Our Sponsors (helps fund our journalism) Your Sunday J Holiday Bytes