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Meat loaf has made a comeback, with restaurants everywhere featuring variations of the dish on their menus. Food gurus say the “diner movement” inspired meat loaf’s return, but in my kitchen it has never really been gone.

Sure, cholesterol phobia, pizza deliveries and single-serve microwaveable pouches may have stolen center stage from this universally appealing comfort food. But not for long. Meat loaf is perfect fare in so many ways, and it is still a traditional favorite.

A tasty meat loaf is easy to prepare for a family dinner and can be made ahead, warmed or frozen until ready to serve. It’s just the thing for a special Shabbat meal and delicious lunch on Saturday. (Think cold leftover meat loaf between two slices of challah with pickles and ketchup).

Start with the basic ingredients of ground meat, aromatics, spices, an egg or two and filler, mix well and bake. It’s that easy. Variations on these ingredients produce a meat loaf that is uniquely yours. It can be adapted to any ethnic cuisine.

For a juicy, moist meat loaf, use meat with some fat in it and bake at a low-medium temperature.

My Basic Meat Loaf

Serves 6-8

2 Tbs. oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1⁄2 tsp. dried thyme

2 lbs. ground meat*

1⁄2 cup dry bread crumbs

2⁄3 cup ketchup

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 tsp. salt

1⁄2 tsp. ground pepper

1⁄4 cup chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

In a medium skillet, heat oil. Sauté onions and garlic until translucent. Stir in thyme and cook another minute or so. Let cool.

In a large bowl, combine the meat, onions mixture, bread crumbs, 1⁄3 cup ketchup, eggs, salt, pepper and parsley. Spoon the mixture into a 9×5 loaf pan. Spread the remaining ketchup over the top. Bake about 1 hour and 10 minutes** or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center registers 145 degrees. Let rest about 10 minutes before serving.

*Any combination of ground meat may be used: chicken, turkey, beef, lamb or veal. If using only ground poultry, include at least 1⁄2 lb. of dark meat for flavor and moistness.

**If using ground poultry, reduce baking time by 10 minutes.

My Mother’s “French” Meat Loaf

Serves 6-8

I have no idea what made it French, but it was a visual treat when sliced.

2 Tbs. oil

1 large onion, chopped

1 cup chopped celery

2 lbs. ground meat

1⁄2 cup crushed soda crackers

2 eggs, beaten

1 Tbs. Dijon mustard

1 Tbs. soy sauce

11⁄2 tsp. salt

6 shelled hard-boiled eggs

1⁄3 cup ketchup

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Heat oil and sauté onion and celery about 10 minutes. Let cool.

In a large bowl, combine ground meat with remaining ingredients except eggs and ketchup.

Transfer half the mixture to a 9×5 loaf pan. With the back of a spoon, form a shallow depression in the meat mixture running the length of the pan. Trim enough white from both ends of the eggs to reveal the yolk. Lay the eggs end to end in the depression in the meat mixture. Top with remaining meat mixture, sealing the ends. Spread the ketchup on top. Bake about 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Let the meat loaf rest for 10 minutes before slicing.   

Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Faith Kramer. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to [email protected].