It’s no surprise to find brisket, gefilte fish, matzah ball soup and other traditional Passover foods at Jewish restaurants this time of year.
What is surprising is the growing number of local, non-Jewish, upscale eateries that are offering Passover-themed dinners and menus — including two restaurants that serve Mexican food.
At least eight mainstream Bay Area restaurants — and that’s beyond the handful that feature Jewish fare all year — are offering either á la carte Passover items during the week of the holiday (Monday, March 25 through April 2) or full-out Passover dinners. Scroll below for details and menus.
On the heels of a plethora of Chanukah-themed dinners in December (Fifth Floor … Baker and Banker … Old World Food Truck … Grand Lake Kitchen), it would appear that a Jewish food craze has indeed taken root locally. Either that, or restaurants are trying to create a marketing niche.
At Baker and Banker in San Francisco, executive chef and co-owner Jeff Banker is adding á la carte items such as brisket, matzah ball soup and flourless chocolate cake to his regular menu for the week.
Similarly, at Delfina in San Francisco, chef-owner Craig Stoll will have items such as matzah ball soup (with walnuts in the matzah balls), brisket and matzah toffee. Also on the menu: an edible seder plate with six traditional items prepared in untraditional ways.
At the Grand Lake Kitchen in Oakland, Delfina alum May Seto and her husband and co-owner, Dave Wasem, will add to their regular menu matzah ball soup, brisket, haroset and matzah handmade by nearby Beauty’s Bagel Shop.
Perbacco in San Francisco is having a one-night-only Passover dinner — but not a seder — on Wednesday, March 27, celebrating traditional Jewish cooking in Italy with recipes by guest chef Joyce Goldstein, author of “Cucina Ebraica.” The expansive menu includes chopped duck liver and a hazelnut sponge cake.
San Francisco’s Firefly, under the direction of chef-owner Brad Levy, will have a large, weeklong á la carte Passover menu that includes housemade gefilte fish, Brad’s mom’s braised beef brisket, and matzah kugel with caramelized cauliflower.
In Berkeley, Mex-ican food restaurant Comal decided to hold two family-style Passover meals this year, and both sold out quickly. (See page 34 for details.)
Mexican Passover specialties will be on the menu at Rosa Mexicano in San Francisco all week. The large Passover menu will include matzah ball pozole soup, red snapper gefilte fish, banana-leaf-wrapped barbecue beef brisket and Grandma Shapiro’s strudel à la Mexicana with tropical fruit.
While none of these restaurants are kosher, some are billing their menu as kosher for Passover, in that no flour will be used. None include a seder.
Here’s a rundown of the Passover dinners on the docket for this year. If you know of any others, please contact me at [email protected].
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BAKER AND BANKER
1701 Octavia Street, San Francisco (at Bush Street)
March 26 through April 2
From their website: “Celebrate your Passover with us. Enjoy Jeff’s Matzo Ball Soup, Brisket Pot-au-Feu with Spring vegetables, and Flourless Chocolate Cake. All items will be available a la carte. Our Passover Menu runs March 26th – April 2nd.”
More details: http://www.bakerandbanker.com/
(415) 351-2500
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PERBACCO
230 California St., San Francisco (near Front Street)
March 27 dinner
Traditional Jewish cooking in Italy will be celebrated with recipes by guest chef Joyce Goldstein, working in collaboration on this annual meal with chef Staffan Terje. The recipes are from Goldstein’s book “Cucina Ebraica,” and this is her sixth year at the helm of this event.
Here’s the menu from their website:
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Haroset
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Antipasti (served family style)
Fegato di Anatra alle Uova Sode – Chopped Duck Liver, Italian Style
Carciofi alla Giudia – Crispy Fried Artichokes, Jewish Style
Concia – Roasted Zucchini with Mint and Vinegar
Peperoni Ripieni – Peppers Stuffed with Eggplant
Sarde in Saor – Venetian Sweet and Sour Sardines with Onion, Pine Nuts and Raisins
Sedano – Braised Celery Root
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Primi
Brodo con Polpette e Uova per Pesach – Passover Soup with Chicken Dumplings and Eggs
OR Zuppa di Porri – Leek Soup with Mushrooms and Potatoes
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Secondi (choose one per person)
Spigola con Salsa di Rabarbero – Sea Bass with Rhubarb Sauce_Tonno Fresco con Piselli – Fresh Tuna with Spring Peas
Pollo Arrosto all’Arancia, Limone , e Zenzero_Roast Chicken with Orange, Lemon and Ginger
Rotolo di Vitello coi Colori – Veal Breast Stuffed with Peppers and an Omelet_Stuffato d’Agnello – Lamb Stew with Green Garlic
Carciofata di Trieste – Spring Vegetable Stew from Trieste (vegetarian)
Contorni for the Table
Purea di Patate e Olio – Olive Oil Potato Purée
Finocchio alla Giudia – Braised Fennel, Jewish Style
Stufato di Fave, Carciofi e Lattuga – Spring Stew of Fava Beans, Artichokes and Lettuce
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Dolce (served family style)
Frutta Caramellata con Zabaglione – Caramelized Fresh Fruit with Zabaglione
Pan di Spagna alle Nocciole – Passover Hazelnut Sponge Cake
Torta di Noce – Walnut Cake
Marzipane con Limone – Lemon Marzipan
$49 not including beverages, tip, and tax.
Reserve are by phone only.
(415) 955-0663
http://www.perbaccosf.com
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COMAL
2020 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley (between University and Addison)
March 25-26
One of the top new restaurants of 2012 is marking Passover with two Mexican-inspired dinners from chef Matt Gandin. The family-style dinners are not kosher-for-Passover, and in the Sephardic tradition, the meals will include and handmade corn tortillas, achiote rice and black beans.
Menu:
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Guacamole w/ chops & three salsas
Sikli pak: toasted pumpkin seeds, grilled eggplant, habanero
Jicama & cucumber: chile arbol, lime
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Tequila-cured salmon: avocado, endive, radish, cilantro oil
Lamb Barbacoa Quesadilla: Anaheim chiles
Caldo de Pollo: jalapeno matzo balls
Beef Brisket in Adobo: carrots, raisins, peanut-chile arbol salsa, mustard greens
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Achiote rice
Midnight black beens de olla
House-made tortillas
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Green Apple Raspado: honey, walnut shortbread
Dinners were limited to 20 guests each at $60 per person, inclusive of gratuity but exclusive of beverage. Both are sold out.
http://www.comalberkeley.com.
(510) 926-6300
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FIREFLY
4288 24th St., San Francisco (at Douglass Street)
March 25-April 2
Chef-owner Brad Levy is offering his restaurant’s annual a la carte Passover menu aimed at omnivores and vegetarians (and those looking for gluten-free options). Chef de cuisine Gabriel Sanders pitches in with some menu items, too. Each table receives matzah, haroset and bagelech (popovers made with matzah meal) instead of bread and butter. Gluten-free matzah available.
Menu from their website:
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Appetizers:
Chopped Chicken Livers with Red Onions, Assorted Pickles and Matzo Crackers 11.50
Kale & Arugula Salad with Asparagus, Snap Peas, Almonds and Mint 10.50
Wilted Spinach Salad with Fennel, Capers and Pecorino Fiore Sardo 11.00
Caramelized Baby Carrots with Orange-Thyme Yogurt, Seed Brittle, and Herbs 10.00
Brad’s Famous House-made Gefilte Fish with Fiery Bi-Color Horseradish 12.50
Shrimp and Sea Scallop Potstickers (Because We Have To) 12.00
Grandma Rose’s Matzo Ball Soup with a Big Carrot Chunk 9.50
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Entrees:
Local Halibut with Slow Roasted Spring Onions, Crispy Young Brassicas and Romesco Sauce 26.00
Seared Mt. Lassen Trout with Beurre Blanc, Crispy Tarragon Dumplings and Glazed Asparagus 24.00
Braised Rocky Chicken with Red Mole Sauce, Winter Vegetable Tamal and Guacamole Slaw 21.00
Roasted Lamb Sirloin with Roasted Carrots, Black Olives, Fava Beans & Leaves and Blood Orange 26.00
Brad’s Mom’s Beef Brisket Braised to Succulent Tenderness With Root Vegetable Tzimmes, Chard and Raisins 22.00
Matzo Kugel with Charred Mustard Greens, Spring Onions and Fennel, Caramelized Cauliflower and Meyer Lemon Crème Fraîche 20.00
Pan-Fried Panisse Cake with Grilled Oyster Mushrooms, Fresh Peas and Garlicky Spring Greens 21.00
http://www.fireflyrestaurant.com
(415) 821-7652
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GRAND LAKE KITCHEN
576 Grand Ave., Oakland (across from Lake Merritt)
March 25-April 1 (closed March 26)
A Passover-inspired but “unkosher” a la carte menu. Here’s the menu, according to an email from co-owner May Seto Wasem:
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Matzoh Ball Soup
Charred Chicory Salad – poached egg, mushroom, parmiggiano
Brisket
Charoset
Passover Wine Flight – four glasses of wine
“Everything” Matzoh – from Beauty’s Bagel
All this will be served alongside our regular dinner menu.
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http://www.grandlakekitchen.com
(510) 922-9582
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PALIO D’ASTI
640 Sacramento Street, San Francisco (near Montgomery Street)
Here is the response from an email inquiry that I made:
“Thank you for your email and your interest in Palio D’Asti. We will be doing Passover specials that week. I hope to have the actual menu soon.”
Update: That was on March 4. I’m not sure what “that week” refers to (other than March 25-31). I still haven’t received the menu, nor are have any details been updated to their website. Check the website or call for more information. They might not be having it.
(415) 395-9800
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ROSA MEXICANO
30 Mission St., San Francisco (at Steuart Street)
March 25 through April 2
The chain restaurant is offering its 11th annual “Mexican Seder” (that’s how they bill it) at its downtown San Francisco location (other locations are in New York City, Boston, L.A., Miami, New Jersey, Atlanta, D.C. and elsewhere). The menu is some sort of fusion: new spins on Passover favorites, and one that highlights the rich food traditions of Jews in Mexico.
The menu on their website is in PDF form, and I can’t copy and paste it into this document. Here are some highlights: beef marrow matzah ball pozole soup, red snapper gefilte fish, taco de gribenes y huevo de pato (crispy chicken cracklings, sliced duck and mustard salsa verde), roast saddle of lamb stuffed with quince, pomegranate and cilantro, banana-leaf wrapped barbecue beef brisket and Grandma Shapiro’s strudel à la Mexicana with tropical fruit and chocolate chipotle with whipped cream. There is also “Kosher Sangria Haroset” made with Herradura silver tequila, honey, cinnamon, fresh lemon, cold-pressed apple and Manischewitz reduction.
For the full menu:
http://www.rosamexicano.com/sanfrancisco
(click on “Sample Menus” in the top navigation bar)
(415) 874-4300
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DELFINA
3621 18th St., San Francisco (near Valencia Street)
March 25 through April 2
Once again, chef-owner Craig Stoll is adding his family Passover favorites (including matzah ball soup with walnuts in the matzah balls) on an a la carte basis to the famous Delfina’s nightly menu. Last year there was an edible seder plate, and it is slated to return with six traditional items prepared in untraditional ways. Some other featured items include: handmade matzah from Beauty’s Bagel Shop in Oakland), spring lamb, beef brisket, matzah toffee, kosher beer and wine
http://www.delfinasf.com
(415) 552-4055
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SAUL’S RESTAURANT AND DELICATESSEN
1475 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley (at Vine Street)
March 26 through March 30
On Monday, March 25 – the night of the first seder — the dining room will close at 3 p.m., but it will remain open for Passover takeout until 6 p.m.
Then on Tuesday, March 26, Saul’s will be open for the second night of Passover, for “Passover 5773 Seder Dinners. Tuesday March 26 – Saturday March 30.” While there isn’t an official seder at Saul’s, patrons are invited to bring their own haggadahs and run their own seders at their individual tables (which apparently most parties do for the night of the second seder).
Here is the menu from the Saul’s website:
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The Seder Plate: Roasted Lamb Bone, Egg, Matzo, Saul’s Horseradish, Parsley, Ashkenazi Apple Walnut Charoset
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Seder Apertif (Choose two):
Pacific Gefilte Fish,
Pureed Beets with Yogurt and Za’atar,
Chicken Soup and Kneidlach,
Chopped Liver,
Walnut Chopped ‘Liver’
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Appetizer: Roasted Potato and Prune Caramel
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Main:
Slow Cooked Veal Osso Bucco,
Shakshouka and Egg with Mejadra,
Pacific Salmon Steak in Tripoli Chraimeh Sauce
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Dessert:
Macaroons,
Sponge Cake with Berry Sauce
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A Glass Of Wine_Tea, or Coffee
$50 per person; $17 children under 12
More information:
http://saulsdeli.com/deli/dinner-specials/passover/
(510) 848-3354
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WISE SONS DELI
3150 24th St., San Francisco (at Shotwell Street)
March 25-28
First, the bad news. All four dinners/communal seders at Wise Sons are sold out. Now the good news. Well, there is no good news, really. March 19 at 4 p.m. is the deadline to order from their catering menu, so if you hurry up, maybe you can slide in under the deadline. I guess that’s good news kinda sorta. Even lower on the good news scale is that you can sign up for the waiting list. Price for the dinner: $70 for adults, $30 additional per person for wine pairings, $45 for kids 13-and-under.
NOTE: Because of Passover, Wiise Sons wil NOT be at the Ferry building March 26 or April 2 and we will be CLOSED for breakfast/lunch at the deli from March 25th-29.
http://wisesonsdeli.com
(415) 787-3354
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BEAUTY’S BAGEL SHOP
3838 Telegraph Ave., Oakland (near 40th Street)
March 26 through March 31
There are no special dinners scheduled, and no Passover-centric menu, but many Pesach specialties will be available during the week of Passover. These include: housemade wood-fired matzah, gefilte fish, matzah ball soup (chicken or vegetarian), housemade horseradish, charoset, chopped chicken liver and macaroons. All (or most) of these items are also on Beauty’s catering menu and can be pre-ordered by March 21.
http://www.beautysbagelshop.com
(510) 788-6098
Know of any other restaurants offering Passover food or meals? Contact [email protected].