Todays grooms are accessorizingtraditional and elegant tuxedos

Grooms are following suit fashionwise with brides this year: Simple and elegant tuxedos that are traditional and conservative are in. Black and white are de rigueur.

"The faddish, `hippie' look is no longer in; what grooms are really going with today are conservative, traditional styles that best complement bridal dresses," says Dan McDearmid, vice president of sales and marketing for Gary's Tux Shops on the West Coast.

Andrea Fazio, an assistant manager at a Gingiss Formalwear outlet, agrees.

"A lot of people these days are going for classic, single-breasted tuxedos with a black vest or black tie; a lot of people are saying they want a look that's classy but elegant," she says. "Colors are out these days."

The basic black tuxedo is still the proper attire for a formal evening wedding, with black trousers, coordinated vest or cummerbund and bow tie, according to Modern Bride magazine.

A dinner jacket could work for a formal evening wedding as well as for a semiformal evening wedding. The cutaway or morning coat is the traditional look for a formal daytime wedding.

For an informal daytime or evening wedding, grooms can get away with a black, dark-gray or navy business suit, switching to a white or natural jacket in summer.

The new look for the basic tuxedo is a three-button notched style matched with a six-button vest.

"The three-button is a new look that replaces the single-breasted or double-breasted two-button," Fazio says.

This year, designer Perry Ellis' single-breasted two-button tuxedo features satin-notched lapels, as does the double-breasted six-button model. Satin shawl collars offer slightly jazzier possibilities.

"With the new emphasis on elegant styling, the Oscar de la Renta collection highlights smart, formal dressing with small, understated details," says the company. Subtle features from that designer include brush-stroke detailing on lapels and vests and double lapel shawl collars.

The most popular total look today is the single-breasted tuxedo with a vest. You wouldn't wear a vest with a double-breasted style but might choose a cummerbund.

Formal experts agree that vests are preferred among accessories.

Harvey Weinstein, chairman of Lord West, a leading manufacturer of tuxedos and formal accessories, notes the importance of accessories.

"Regardless of whether the tuxedo is classic in style or a reflection of advanced fashion, it can be a frame or a foil for an interesting shirt, an intriguing vest, an attractive cummerbund, a tie with a special flair or any number of other accouterments such as button covers or collar bands and well-designed studs and cuff links," he says.

Lord West's current collection features vests in multicolor silk prints, Oriental print velvets, abstract patterns with a Southwestern heritage and even striated silks.

For the more conservative, the company shows richly patterned black-on-black brocades and vests with satin lapels to coordinate with tuxedos.

Wing-collar shirts are still the most popular, but there are variations in the way wings are cut.

"Whether the wings go behind the tie or float freely above is a matter of letting nature take its course, often dictated by shape and size of tie or wings," Weinstein says. Shirts may also feature narrow or wide pleats, pin tucks, embroidered edges or very fine black stripes.

Ties typically match the vest or cummerbund.

"Purists, however, may choose a black silk satin tie to wear with a patterned or solid colored vest or cummerbund," Weinstein says.