Potato latkes are Chanukah’s signature dish, not because of the potato but because of the oil. Potatoes did not exist in the Holy Land when the ancient Israelites triumphed over the Syrians.
During what may have been the region’s first oil crisis, a single day’s supply of oil lasted for eight. For that reason, oil is the heart of Chanukah. And any food fried in oil, no matter how sweet, is a fitting tribute for the celebration.
While there is evidence that the custom of making latkes from potatoes originated in Russia, innovative Jewish cooks have extended the repertoire for centuries. Adding sugar to late-harvest produce, they’ve created sensational desserts.
The Viennese, the dessert mavens of the world, were not content to leave latkes in skillets. Elevating them to creamy crepes layered with applesauce, they concocted a torte as elegant as Vienna, a perfect finale to dairy meals.
Like carrot cake, carrot latkes have hit the dessert circuit, too. Infused with vanilla and almonds, they are dusted with confectioners’ sugar. Don’t worry if they cool; they’re also irresistible at room temperature.
Inspired by seasonal fruit, cranberry latkes are an American contribution to Chanukah cuisine. With orange juice and raisins playing counterpoint to tart berries, they burst with piquant flavor.