It was pure serendipity that we found Carne Restaurant on our first night in Istanbul.
Due to a government parade, the main streets were closed to traffic, so we were not able to honor our reservation at a highly touted restaurant on the other side of the Bosporus. Hungry and jet-lagged, we decided to take a walk and came upon a small, elegant, warmly lit restaurant.
We were definitely seduced by the small, Hebrew-lettered sign “kasher” below the name, and walked right in to have our first Turkish meal.
We were welcomed by manager Tuna Eshkanazi, and shown to a window table where we could observe the parade.
Carne is one of the very few strictly kosher meat restaurants in Turkey and apparently very popular with tourists worldwide.
Eshkanazi explained that, with the exception of herself, the rest of the staff were Muslim, including the chef, but that all knew the rules of kashrut ardently. Most of the dishes on the menu were Sephardic with a Turkish twist. The chef’s recipes were not available, but the following are my adaptations.
Shepherd’s Salad | Serves 6-8
Dressing:
1 Tbs. red wine vinegar1 Tbs. pomegranate molasses or vinegar*
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
6 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
Salad:
4 medium tomatoes, seeded and cut into chunks
1 hot house cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into chunks
2 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into cubes
1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into cubes
1 large red onion, cut into small chunks
1 cup chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper
In a small bowl whisk dressing ingredients until well blended.
In a large bowl combine vegetables with half the parsley and dressing. Toss well, add salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with remaining parsley.
*Pomegranate molasses can be found in the ethnic food section of your market. I use a brand called Carlo (kosher). You can also use Pom pomegranate juice by cooking it down to a syrupy consistency.
Spicy Red Lentil Soup | Serves 8
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 tsp. chili flakes (or to taste)
3 Tbs. tomato paste
8 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups red lentils
2 cups bulgar
salt and pepper
fresh mint leaves for garnish
In a large sauce pan heat oil. Add onion, garlic and pepper and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato chili flakes, tomato paste and stock. Stir well and bring to a boil. Add lentils and bulgar and simmer until lentils are tender about 20 minutes. In a blender puree half the soup and return it to saucepan. Taste for salt and pepper. Serve garnished with mint.
Leek and Lamb Balls | Makes 20
2 lbs. leeks, white-part only, cleaned
1/2 lb. ground lamb or beef
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup matzah meal or breadcrumbs
1 tsp. salt or to taste
oil for frying
Slice leeks and cook in boiling water until soft. Drain, press out excess liquid and chop finely. Mix leeks, lamb, walnuts and beaten eggs, 1 tablespoon matzah meal and the salt. Roll into balls 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Roll balls first in remaining egg and then in remaining matzah meal.
Heat oil in a skillet and fry over moderate heat for 3 minutes or until browned. Drain on paper towels. Serve warm as is or with a tomato sauce.
Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Rebecca Ets-Hokin. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to [email protected].