For San Francisco Jewish Democrats savoring their party’s November election blowout, the taste of victory is a lot like … potatoes.
At least it was for the Raoul Wallenberg Jewish Democratic Club, whose members celebrated the Festival of Lights with their annual Chanukah party, held Dec. 6 at Rassela’s jazz club in S.F.
About 150 happy, hungry liberals, including several local politicians, turned out for the club’s first-ever Top Latke competition.
This was no small fry contest. Notable San Francisco restaurants like Max’s, California Street, Town’s End and Miller’s East Coast West deli threw their spatulas in the ring to vie for the title of Top Latke. Judging were renowned latke experts like City Treasurer Jose Cisneros, City Attorney Dennis Herrera, Assessor Phil Ting and the newly elected, serendipitously named Supervisor Ed Jew (not a Jew).
California Street chef John Beardsley said his recipe is “pretty traditional: the right kind of potatoes, seasoned well, cooked in a combination of canola oil and chicken fat.”
Club member Judith Berkowitz, playing David to the professional chefs’ Goliath, also joined in the fry-for-all, preparing her “deep-dish” baked latkes for the crowd.
“I had a whim,” said Berkowitz, when asked why she decided to go for the Top Latke crown. “This is a 20-year-old recipe I hadn’t made in years.”
Standing next to her was another dark horse candidate, Dan Kalb, who added a secret ingredient to his homemade latkes (and it wasn’t dark horse).
“I add grated zucchini,” says the policy coordinator for the Union of Concerned Scientists, who stayed up cooking until 2 a.m. the night before. “I hope the prize is that they pay off my mortgage.”
With klezmer trio Kugelplex playing a little fressing music, platters warmed, applesauce tureens filled and latke-wranglers at the ready, revelers lined up to eat their fill.
One of them, Carrie Rice, couldn’t wait. “I’m a bi-latke American,” said the Sherith Israel program director of her potato pancake orientation. “But I usually go sour cream.”
This was not a wine tasting, at which samples are spit out before swallowing. Pigging out was encouraged. Still, the discriminating palate had its work cut out. Judges had to ask hard questions: Grated or pureed? Applesauce or sour cream? Light golden brown or deep mocha colored carmelization?
Like tuberous, starchy snowflakes, no two latkes are alike.
Towns End latkes offered a touch of sweet carrot. East Coast West’s sported a hint of spiciness. “It wasn’t the oil that lasted eight days,” joked club member Linda Frank. “It was the smell.”
Finally, ready to choose winners, the judges retired to a smoke-filled room (it was from cooking oil, not cigars). Some of the categories besides Top Latke included Crispiest Latke, Most Like Bubbe’s Latke, Davka Latke and, for the most unusual entry, the Kafka Latke.
Like a scene from “12 Angry Men,” city fathers wrestled and debated. No international observers (other than this reporter) were on hand to guarantee the accuracy of the vote, but the deliberations were fair.
State Assemblyman Mark Leno, a former rabbinical student, took the stage to announce the winners. Before that, he wondered out loud if it were possible to taste the difference between Republican and Democratic latkes. Ting suggested that Republican latkes have more hot air and cost more.
Then, the winners. Kalb won for Most Traditional (but he will still have to pay off the mortgage himself). Berkowitz won for Healthiest Latke. When asked how it felt to win, she said dryly, “Ecstatic. Can’t you tell?”
And the Top Latke prize went to Miller’s East Coast West, for its masterfully delicate pancake, fried to auburn-colored perfection.
Club member Rice loved the evening. “This is a great opportunity for a more social event,” says the former public policy student. “And it is all Jewish food.”
As the event wound down, sated latke lovers departed into the night, no doubt to begin battling the miracle of indigestion for eight crazy nights.