At this time of year, apples are abundant in the markets. Their heady perfume and presumed aphrodisiacal effects are mentioned in the Bible: “Strengthen me with raisins and refresh me with apples, because I am weak from love” (Song of Solomon 2:5).

November is definitely apple time, when we have so many varieties of apples and so many delicious and interesting ways to incorporate them into our meals and snacks. Whether eaten fresh from the tree or market, served in a savory salad, baked in a tart or pureed into a sauce, the versatility of apples never lacks a place at the table.

Brandied Applesauce

Serves 8-10

8 large tart apples, peeled, cored and quartered

2 oranges, peeled and sectioned

4 Tbs. sugar

4 Tbs. cognac or brandy

Combine the apples, oranges and sugar in a saucepan; cover and simmer over medium heat until soft. Mash the apples with a wooden spoon. Add the brandy and allow to stand 2 hours before serving.

Swedish Beet Salad

Serves 8-10

1 1⁄2 cups crème frâiche

2 Tbs. lemon juice

2 tsp. fine sea salt

1 tsp. black pepper

10 medium beets, cooked, peeled and chopped

2 medium tart apples, peeled and chopped

2 small red onions, finely chopped

4 cornichons, finely chopped

In a small bowl, combine the crème frâiche, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Combine the beets, apples, onions and cornichons. Pour the sauce over the beet mixture and mix well. Adjust seasoning and serve immediately.

Apple Cranberry Crisp

Serves 8-10

4 apples, cored and sliced

1 cup fresh cranberries

1⁄2 cup sugar

2 Tbs. flour

1 Tbs. vanilla extract

1⁄3 cup flour

1⁄3 cup oats

1⁄3 cup brown sugar

1⁄4 tsp. nutmeg

3 oz. unsalted butter, melted

Toss together the fruit, sugar, the 2 Tbs. of flour and the vanilla. Place the fruit in a baking dish.

In a small bowl, combine the 1⁄3 cup flour, oats, brown sugar, nutmeg and butter. Mix until crumbly and spread over the fruit.

Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven for 30 minutes, until the fruit is tender and the topping crisp. Serve warm.

French Apple Tart

Serves 10

6 tart apples, peeled and cored

4 Tbs. sugar

1 recipe Basic Short Pastry (recipe follows)

1⁄2 cup apple jelly

Cut 4 of the apples in half, and place in a small saucepan with the sugar. Cover and cook over a low flame until softened, about 15 minutes. Mash into an applesauce and cool. Slice the 4 remaining apples thinly.

Roll the dough out and line an 11-inch tart tin. Spread the bottom with the cooled applesauce. Cover the applesauce with the apple slices in an attractive design. Bake the tart about 30 minutes, in a preheated 400-degree oven. Unmold and cool. Melt the jelly and brush the apples for a beautiful clear glaze.

Basic Short Pastry

1 1/3 cups flour

1/2 tsp. fine sea salt

4 oz. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and frozen

4-5 Tbs. ice water

Combine the flour and salt in a food processor. Add the frozen butter and process until the mixture is crumbly. Add the water gradually until the dough gathers together.

Flatten the dough, sprinkle with a little flour, wrap in plastic and refrigerate until ready to use.

Rebecca Ets-Hokin is a certified culinary professional. Visit her Web site at www.GoRebecca.com. She can be reached at [email protected].

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