It would be hard to find a community more enthusiastic about Jewish holiday food than the Tunisians and those who emigrated from Tunisia. Chanukah and Purim are two holidays that get extra special treatment and share many food traditions, since they are seen as linked because of the miracles both celebrate.
Yoyos, or orange-flavored doughnuts, are favored at Chanukah because they are fried in oil. They also make their appearance at Purim when the sweetness of the sugar-honey syrup they are dipped in symbolizes the wish for drawing a good lot or sweet future. Yoyo recipes vary from having a fritterlike texture to one somewhat like an American cake doughnut. My recipe makes a moist, soft, cake-style doughnut. The flavors are based on one shared with me by a Tunisian Jewish acquaintance, but the adaptation of the recipe is mine. Haminados, or long-cooked eggs, are eaten at Purim since their name sounds similar to Haman’s. The long cooking turns the whites a creamy tan and gives the eggs a slightly nutty flavor.
American Yoyos
Makes about 18-24 doughnuts
5 cups flour, divided, plus extra for kneading
11⁄4 cups sugar
2 Tbs. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
4 eggs, beaten
3 Tbs. orange juice
1 tsp. orange flower water or 1 tsp. vanilla
1⁄4 cup canola oil plus extra for frying and greasing
1⁄4 cup honey
1 recipe of sugar syrup or 1⁄2 cup sugar
Combine 4 cups of flour, sugar, baking powder and baking soda and stir well. In a separate bowl, mix eggs, orange juice, orange flower water, oil and honey. Slowly add flour mixture, stirring until well combined. Add additional flour (up to 1 cup) as needed until dough firms up and can be handled and is soft but not overly sticky. Turn out onto floured surface; oil hands and knead, adding flour if needed until dough firms up and forms ball. Place in oiled bowl, cover with dish towel and let rest 1 hour.
Cover 2 or 3 baking trays with waxed paper or parchment paper. Keeping unused dough covered, take about 3 Tbs. of dough at a time. With oiled hands, roll into a ball, then rub between hands to make a rope or snake of dough about 7-8 inches long. Loop the rope into a circle and pinch ends closed. Place on tray. Repeat.
In a deep pan, heat 2-3 inches of oil to 355 degrees on a deep fry/candy thermometer, put a circle of dough in the hot oil, and keep frying temperature steady by raising or lowering heat as needed. Fry until a deep golden brown (1-2 minutes) on each side. Break open to make sure it is cooked through, the brown crust is not too thick and there is no burnt taste from overbrowning. Adjust cooking time if needed. Return oil to 355 degrees, then slip a few circles in the pan at a time, being careful not to crowd the pan and keeping frying temperature steady. Pinch circles back in shape if they start to sag as you transfer them. Fry as above, draining on paper towel–lined plate or rack over a baking tray. Repeat.
Dip warm doughnuts into cooled syrup (see below) and place on rack over baking tray to catch any drips. Serve plain or sprinkled with sugar. Serve immediately.
To make sugar-honey syrup: Combine 3⁄4 cup sugar, 1⁄4 cup honey, 2 cups water, 1⁄4 tsp. vanilla and 11⁄2 Tbs. lemon juice in a sauce pan. Heat over low heat, stirring
occasionally, until sugar dissolves. Raise heat to bring to a low boil and cook until syrup is reduced and a deep fry/candy thermometer reads 225 degrees. Makes 11⁄2 cups of syrup.
Haminados
Makes 12 eggs
brown outer skins from 10 large onions, rinsed clean
12 eggs in the shell, room temperature
1 tsp. salt
6 Tbs. oil
Place 3⁄4 of the onion skins in the bottom of a large pot. Put eggs on top and then remaining onion skins. Add water to cover eggs by 2 inches. Add salt. Bring to a boil, add oil, cover with lid and reduce heat to very low. Simmer for 8 to 12 hours, adding water if needed. Remove eggs, rinse and pat dry. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Faith Kramer is a Bay Area food writer. Her columns alternate with those of Louise Fiszer. She blogs her food at www.clickblogappetit.com. Contact her at [email protected].