Yes, we’ve heard that the oil lasted for eight nights, and we fry to remember the miracle. But what do we fry and how did the tradition come about?
According to “Entrée to Judaism: A Culinary Exploration of the Jewish Diaspora,” potatoes only made their way to Europe in the 16th century. After that, another two centuries elapsed before the tuber graduated from the animal scrap bin to prison food to the tables of free people— mostly free, poor people. Let’s stay in Europe for the next step in Hanukkah’s culinary evolution.
When the holiday rolled around in the winter, French Jews were busy slaughtering fattened geese for feathers, meat and rendered fat that served as cooking oil for the year ahead. Put these things together — December timeline, goose fat, potatoes that even the poorest family had access to — and a culinary tradition was born. That’s one version of the story anyway, and as those who understand comfort food can attest, nothing beats fried potato pancakes as temporary relief in the face of hardship and poverty.
This year, celebrate the “traditional” with super-fast potato latkes, or look to the oil as you embrace the great miracle that happened there via cauliflower latkes. Cauliflower doesn’t oxidize, so you can make the batter ahead of time and fry once your guests arrive. Suggested toppings are included below.
Cauliflower Latkes
Makes 32 small latkes
1 large head cauliflower (about 5 cups cut-up florets)
1 Tbs. olive oil
4 whole garlic cloves, peeled
1/2 cup matzah meal
1/2 tsp. baking powder
11/4 tsp. salt
plenty of freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs, slightly beaten
2 Tbs. chopped chives
vegetable oil as needed
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add cauliflower florets and simmer until tender, 11-14 minutes depending on size of florets. Drain and cool. While cauliflower is cooking, heat olive oil in a small skillet. Sauté garlic cloves over low heat for 3-4 minutes until golden brown on all sides. Do not burn.
Transfer cooked cauliflower and garlic plus oil to a food processor. Blend until roughly minced. Transfer mixture to a large bowl. Mix in matzah meal, baking powder, salt and pepper. Mix in egg and chives.
To cook latkes, heat large skillet with a thick coating of oil across the bottom. Drop rounded tablespoons of cauliflower mixture into hot oil. Cook about 2 minutes per side till golden. Add more oil as necessary. Serve hot.
Quickest Latkes Around
Makes 12 latkes
1 russet potato, scrubbed
2 Tbs. shallots, finely minced
¼ cup flour
3/4 tsp. salt
plenty of freshly ground black pepper
1 egg
vegetable oil for frying
Shred the potato using a hand grater. This will be faster than using a food processor because a hand grater is easier to clean. Scoop up shredded potatoes in your hands and squeeze out liquid over a sink. Transfer potatoes to a bowl. Add shallots, flour, salt and pepper. Mix with a fork. Add egg, and mix with a fork until uniform. Heat a large skillet with a thick coating of oil. Fry latkes in heaping tablespoons 2-3 minutes per side over medium-high heat. Serve hot.
Suggested toppings: For Cranberry Applesauce, mix 1 cup applesauce with 1/2 cup leftover cranberry sauce (or use canned). For Zatar Sour Cream, mix 1 cup sour cream with 1 tsp. zatar, garnishing with an extra pinch of zatar.
Josie A.G. Shapiro won the 2013 Man-O Manischewitz Cook-Off, is the co-author of “The Lazy Gourmet” and works at the JCC of San Francisco. Her columns alternate with those of Faith Kramer. Her website is www.thechickencontests.com.