Kugel started out as a bread batter simmered in the Sabbath stew — the concept came from China along the Silk Road into Italy and then hopped over to Germany around the 12th century. Jewish cooks would simmer the stew along with a bread dumpling (which they would bind with egg) on Friday and eat it warm the next morning after services.
This went on for centuries and kugel as we know it now — the kind baked in an oven — is a rather recent development. Actually, having an oven is a rather recent development. Back in the day, only the wealthiest could afford one, and most food was cooked on the hearth over flames. If you wanted something baked, you’d put on your boots and hoof it to the town bakery.
When home ovens proliferated in the mid-19th century, a kugel bonanza followed. OK, maybe not a bonanza, but chances are the kugel you think of from your childhood is not an oversize dumpling simmered in stew. It is the baked variety served up in a square dish or casserole. Since all things culinary are simply riffs upon riffs, here are some new ones for you.
Curried Spinach Kugel
Serves 8-10 as a side dish
12 oz. broad egg noodles
16 oz. whole-milk ricotta
16 oz. sour cream
6 eggs
2 tsp. curry powder
11/2 Tbs. brown sugar
2 tsp. salt
plenty of freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. frozen spinach, thawed and drained
1/3 cup golden raisins
1/3 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cook egg noodles in salted water for 2 minutes less than directed on package. Drain. In a large bowl, whisk together ricotta, sour cream, eggs, curry powder, brown sugar, salt and pepper. Fold in spinach and stir until uniform. Add cooked egg noodles, raisins and pine nuts and stir to combine. Transfer to greased 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Bake covered tightly with foil in preheated oven for 30 minutes until set. Remove foil, increase heat to 375 degrees and bake 8-12 more minutes until set and lightly golden on top.
Spaghetti Kugel with Shishito Peppers
Serves 3-4
1/2 lb. spaghetti
1/3 cup olive oil
1/2 cup shishito peppers, stems removed, sliced thin
1 tsp. garlic, minced
1/2 cup scallions, chopped
6 eggs
1/2 cup Parmesan, grated
1 tsp. salt
plenty of freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup Italian parsley, finely chopped
Cook spaghetti 1 minute less than package directions for al dente. Drain. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a standard ovenproof 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Sauté the shishito peppers, garlic and scallions until soft but not brown, 2-3 minutes. In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs, Parmesan, salt and pepper. Add eggs to the skillet and turn down heat to medium-low. Add cooked spaghetti and parsley to skillet. Toss gently using tongs until spaghetti and eggs are evenly distributed. Cover skillet and cook over low heat 5 minutes or until eggs are just set. Preheat broiler. Broil pan of eggs until lightly golden on top. Let sit for 2 minutes. Run knife around edge of pan to loosen kugel. Cut in wedges to serve. Serve with hot sauce and sour cream if desired.
Simple Salad
Serves 2
3 cups mixed greens
1 clementine orange, sectioned
1/4 cup shaved fennel (use a mandolin or vegetable peeler)
2 Tbs. champagne vinegar
3 Tbs. olive oil
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbs. pomegranate seeds
2 Tbs. pistachios, shelled
Combine greens, clementine and shaved fennel in a large bowl. Drizzle with vinegar and olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Toss. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and pistachios.
Josie A.G. Shapiro is the co-author of “The Lazy Gourmet.” Her columns alternate with those of Faith Kramer. Her website is www.thechickencontests.com.