I called my maternal grandma “Mushy-Pushy” because of how she lovingly pushed food on me until I thought I would burst.
I thought of my grandmother when I learned of Buddha Bowls. Overflowing with grain, vegetables, protein and sauce, each serving is offered in a heap resembling a round Buddha belly. I decided to give this dish an Ashkenazi makeover in honor of my grandmother.
My Bubbe Bowl features a variation on kasha varnishkes as its base, layered with vegetables and chicken and topped with a ladleful of sweet-and-sour tomato sauce. Kasha varnishkes are an Ashkenazi Jewish favorite that combines kasha (buckwheat groats) with noodles (typically farfalle bow-tie pasta).
When constructing Bubbe Bowls, other vegetables (even leftovers) can be substituted for the ones specified in the recipe. Traditional kasha is available in the kosher section of supermarkets and in natural-foods stores.
Bubbe Bowls
Serves 4-6
1 recipe Bubbe Bowl Kasha Varnishkes (see recipe)
2 cups Sweet-and-Sour Tomato Sauce (see recipe)
2 cups cooked, chopped kale or other greens
2 cups cooked, 1½-inch cubes of butternut squash or sweet potato
1 cup sliced or diced cooked beets, homemade or canned
3-4 cups sliced, cooked chicken, boneless and skinless
¼ cup chopped parsley
Follow recipes for kasha varnishkes and sauce. Prepare other ingredients and have them ready at warm or room temperature. In 4 individual bowls, mound equal portions of kasha varnishkes topped with kale, squash, beets and chicken. Ladle ½ cup sauce over each serving and garnish with 1 Tbs. parsley. (Use
6 smaller bowls for less hearty appetites.)
Bubbe Bowl Kasha Varnishkes
Makes 7 cups
1 cup bow-tie (farfalle) pasta
5 Tbs. oil, divided
1 cup chopped onions
1 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
2 cups sliced mushrooms
¼ tsp. salt
½ tsp. ground black pepper
¼ tsp. paprika
1 cup whole, roasted buckwheat groats (kasha)
2½ cups water
Cook pasta as per package directions. Drain and toss with 2 Tbs. oil. Set aside. While pasta is cooking, start kasha.
In large saucepot or deep, large skillet, heat 2 Tbs. oil over medium-high heat. Add onions. Sauté until golden. Add garlic. Sauté until golden. Add mushrooms. Sauté until beginning to soften. Stir in salt, pepper and paprika and 1 Tbs. oil. Stir in kasha until coated. Add water. Stir well. Bring to simmer. Cover, lower heat and keep at simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10-12 minutes or until water is almost absorbed and kasha is tender but still has a bit of a crunch at the center. (Add additional water as needed.) Stir in pasta with all its oil. Taste. Adjust seasonings.
Sweet-and-Sour Tomato Sauce
Makes 4 cups
1 cup raisins
14½-oz. can diced tomatoes with liquid
15-oz. can plain tomato sauce
3 Tbs. brown sugar, or to taste
¼ tsp. ground dried ginger
¼ tsp. salt, or to taste
1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar, or to taste
Cover raisins with hot water and soak until soft, about 10 minutes. Drain. In saucepot, combine tomatoes with liquid and tomato sauce. Bring to simmer over medium heat, stirring regularly. Stir in sugar, ginger, salt, drained raisins and vinegar. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring regularly, until slightly thickened. Taste. Add additional salt, sugar or vinegar as needed. Serve half with Bubbe Bowls; refrigerate or freeze rest for another use.
Faith Kramer is a Bay Area food writer. Her columns alternate with those of Josie A.G. Shapiro. Faith blogs about her food at clickblogappetit.com. Contact her at [email protected].