I was slightly apprehensive about my trip to Israel recently. I wasn’t worried about my safety, but concerned about how I would find the spirit and daily life of the Israelis.
My anxiety was quickly put to rest as we started to walk the streets of Tel Aviv to one of my favorite restaurants in Kerem Ha Teimanim (the Yemenite Quarter). The streets were far from deserted as Israelis went on their daily routines. The tables outside the cafes were occupied, and lively chatter prevailed.
What really was in evidence is the fallen economy, exhibited by the many boarded storefronts with “For Lease or Rent” signs. However, the mood seems optimistic and from my initial impressions, no one is sitting at home in fear.
Getting back to my favorite restaurant — Maganda is an informal place, with large worn wooden tables seating families, soldiers and every now and then a tour group. The food is Yemenite cuisine at its best: unfamiliar herbs and spices creating wonderful aromas from the oven and grills.
When we entered we were greeted by one of the owners like long-lost family. We were shown to the only empty table and immediately given menus and asked what we’d be drinking. The menu features kabobs and shishliks (skewered meats), and poultry and meats in various stews. They are all delicious, but the first page of the extensive menu is what I come here for. There are about six different hatzelim (eggplant) salads, four types of hummus, pepper and tomato mixtures, and a host of other appetizers.
“One of each” was our order, and we wiped the little dishes clean with warm pillows of thick, freshly baked pita.
You can use the basic eggplant recipe as is, or as a base for two equally delicious but different salads.
Basic Eggplant Salad | Makes 3 to 4 cups
2 lbs. eggplant
1/4 cup olive oil
lemon juice to taste
minced garlic to taste
salt and pepper to taste
Bake eggplant in a 400-degree oven until it is soft and collapsed. Cool. Cut eggplant in half and scoop out seeds. Remove pulp with spoon and place in bowl.
Add remaining ingredients and mash or for a smoother texture place all ingredients in food processor.
Eggplant Salad with Tomato | Makes about 4 cups
basic eggplant recipe (above)
1 small tomato, chopped
1/2 green pepper, chopped
2-3 Tbs. tahini
salt and pepper
1/4 tsp. cumin, or to taste
Combine basic eggplant recipe with remaining ingredients.
Eggplant with Pickle | Makes about 4 cups
basic eggplant recipe (above)
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 small onion chopped
1 dill pickle, chopped
Combine all ingredients.
Salat Turkit | Makes about 3 cups
4 Tbs. oil
3 medium onions, chopped
4 green peppers, seeded and chopped
2 sweet red bell peppers, seeded and chopped
3 tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1-1/2 cups pitted green olives, chopped
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. cumin
1 bay leaf
2 Tbs. tomato paste
dash of hot pepper sauce (Tabasco)
2 Tbs. minced parsley
Heat oil in a large skillet. Cook onions until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients except parsley and cook about 10 minutes or until vegetables are soft.
Taste for seasonings. Let cool and serve sprinkled with parsley.
Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Rebecca Ets-Hokin. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to [email protected]