Gefilte fish, pickled fish, smoked fish, sweet and sour fish … all Jewish cooks are familiar with fish in one incarnation or another.
Although prepared differently in the myriad of Jewish ethnic kitchens, a special fish dish is always appreciated because of its versatility, its parve consideration for kashrut-followers and because it may be eaten at dairy or meat meals.
And for that special celebratory meal, a spectacular butter-and-cream-laden dessert may follow without the restrictions of a fleishik dinner. I frequently receive requests for fish dishes that are simple to prepare, doable in advance and fit to feed a crowd. In other words, “party fish.”
Many of my non-cook readers ask for S.F. fish restaurant recommendations and lucky for us there is no dearth of them. Among my favorites for a special celebration are Aqua, Tonno Rosso and the new and utterly sublime Michael Mina.
The fish recipes that follow no longer require a day’s devotion or lots of last-minute detailing. For best results use the freshest fish you can find.
Sweet and Sour Fish Fillets | Serves 8 as an appetizer, 4-6 as a main course
2 lbs. sole or snapper fillets
about 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil, for frying, plus 2 Tbs. additional
1 large juicy orange, very thinly sliced
1 1/2 lbs. onions, very thinly sliced (6 cups)
1/4 cup raisins
1/2 cup balsamic or red wine vinegar
2 anchovies, finely chopped (optional)
1 cup orange juice
1 bay leaf
fresh greens
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
Cut the fillet in half lengthwise and, if necessary, remove the thin bony strip that runs through the middle of many fillets. Now cut the fillet into 4-inch pieces.
Pat the fish dry with paper towels. Spread the flour on a sheet of wax paper or a platter and season with salt and pepper. Dredge the fish pieces thoroughly in the seasoned flour, then shake lightly to remove all excess. Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a large heavy skillet until hot. Cook the fish in batches until nicely golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels.
Choose a casserole or non-reactive baking dish just large enough to accommodate the fish in one layer and line it with the orange slices. Place the fish on top, overlapping the pieces slightly if necessary.
Wipe out all the oil in the skillet, then warm the 2 tablespoons of fresh oil in it. Add the onions and toss until completely coated with the oil. Salt and pepper lightly, cover the pan, and cook slowly over very low heat for 35-40 minutes, until the onions are tender and starting to color. Stir from time to time to make sure the onions don’t burn.
Soak the raisins in the vinegar.
When the onions are very tender, stir in the optional anchovies and cook for 2 minutes, stirring to dissolve them. Add the vinegar with the raisins, the orange juice and bay leaf. Turn the heat up to high and cook, uncovered, until the liquid is reduced by half and onions are caramelized and richly colored, 15-20 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper and remove the bay leaf.
Spread the caramelized onion mixture evenly over the fish. Scatter the toasted pine nuts on top. Wrap well with plastic and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight (even better when served after 48 hours). It will keep very well for at least 4 days.
The fish is best at room temperature, so remove it from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before serving. Serve on a bed of greens.
Sea Bass with Israeli Couscous and Vegetables
(adapted from Michael Mina)
Serves 6
6 6-oz. pieces of cod or sea bass
salt and pepper
3 Tbs. butter or oil
1 lb. mixed mushrooms, coarsely chopped
1 onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup white wine
4 cups mushroom broth
2 cups water
1 fresh thyme sprig or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme
6 cups cooked Israeli couscous*
1/2 lb. yellow wax beans, cut into 1 inch pieces and blanched*
1/2 lb. green beans, cut into 1 inch pieces and blanched*
1/2 lb. cooked baby lima beans*
18 cherry tomatoes, halved and seeded*
chopped fresh parsley for garnish
Sprinkle fish with salt and pepper.
In a sauté pan heat butter until foamy. Cook fish about 2 minutes per side on medium-high heat. Remove to a platter and tent to keep warm.
To same skillet add mushrooms and cook over medium-high heat until they seem dry and just beginning to color. Stir in onions and garlic and cook until onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in chopped tomatoes and wine and cook until bubbly. Add broth, water, and thyme and cook until mixture is reduced to about 4 cups. Return fish to pan, cover and simmer about 3 minutes. Place each piece of fish in rimmed soup plate. Add vegetables and couscous to pan and heat through. Ladle broth over fish and arrange couscous and vegetables around fish. Garnish with freshly chopped parsley.
*Can be done the day before and held, wrapped in plastic in refrigerator until needed.
Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Rebecca Ets-Hokin. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to [email protected].