As I write this column, the first rains are falling, the sky is getting darker and there is a bit of chill in the air.
That’s one of the things I love about living in Northern California — I can experience the change of seasons, even if they change more subtly than they do on the East Coast. For this cook, such weather signals a return to more hearty, comfort-food dishes. What could be more comforting than a steaming bowl of flavorful, full-bodied soup?
Eastern European, Jewish-style soups that are enhanced by noodles, kasha, kreplach and matzah balls are especially nourishing — of body and spirit. Add some chunks of challah or crusty bread and you have a richly satisfying meal. You can make a pot of these soups today and enjoy them for the next several days, if they are stored, covered, in the refrigerator. You can freeze them as well, if they’re tightly covered, and they’ll keep as long as six months.
Israeli Couscous and Vegetable Chicken Soup
Serves 8
4 Tbs. vegetable oil
2 onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
2 tsp. curry powder
1 tsp. ground cumin
1⁄2 tsp. turmeric
1 cup coarsely chopped tomatoes
2 carrots, sliced
1 small butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 parsnip, peeled and sliced
2 zucchinis, sliced
1 cinnamon stick
10 cups chicken stock
1 lb. boneless and skinless chicken breast, cut into strips
salt and pepper
2 cups freshly cooked Israeli couscous
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Heat oil in a large, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Sauté onions, garlic, and pepper until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in curry, cumin, and turmeric and cook 1 minute. Add tomatoes and cook until bubbly. Stir in vegetables and cinnamon stick. Cook about 2 minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil. Simmer, partly covered, 15 minutes. Add chicken and simmer another 8 minutes.
Remove cinnamon stick from soup and taste for salt and pepper. Ladle over couscous.
Barley-Short Rib Soup
Serves 10
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
2 lbs. beef short ribs, excess fat removed
2 onions, chopped
2 carrots, diced
2 stalks celery, sliced
1⁄2 lb. mushrooms, sliced
1⁄2 cup (1 oz.) dried mushrooms, soaked in 1 1/2 cups hot water 30 minutes
1⁄4 cup tomato paste
3 cups beef stock
3 cups water
1 cup pearl barley
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh dill weed
salt and pepper to taste
In a large pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Brown short ribs on all sides. Remove and set aside. Add onions, carrots and celery. Cook until lightly browned and soft, about 10 minutes.
Strain dried mushrooms, reserving soaking liquid. Rinse to wash off sand, if any, and add to pot with fresh mushrooms. Cook about 8 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, stock, water, and reserved soaking liquid. Bring to a boil and add the barley and reserved short ribs. Simmer, partly covered, 1 hour. Remove ribs from soup and cut meat from bones. Discard bones and return meat to soup. Add dill and cook another 10 minutes.
Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Rebecca Ets-Hokin. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to [email protected].