The Torah tells us that Esau sold his birthright to his twin brother Jacob for a bowl of lentil stew. As a lentil lover, I think Jacob made a bad deal. He probably never tasted a delicious lentil soup or healthful lentil salad.
Because of their popularity, due in part to the fact that they don’t need pre-soaking and cook rather quickly, lentils are now available in more colors and types than ever before. While there is little difference in taste among brown, green, red and black, there is usually a difference in cooking time: red ones cook quickly and are great, puréed, to thicken a soup; the green ones need a little more time on the stove.
The most expensive are the lentilles du Puy (special French green lentils), which are the firmest with a slight peppery flavor. In India, lentils are ground into flour, made into bread and eaten at almost every meal.
Lentils should be a part of everyone’s pantry, just waiting to be an ingredient in a soup, stew or salad.
Lentil, Chard and Chicken Soup
Serves 8
2 Tbs. oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 carrots, diced
1 stalk celery, sliced
1 tsp. ground cumin
1⁄2 lb. chard
2 Tbs. tomato paste
11⁄2 cups lentils
8 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups cooked chicken, cut into strips
salt and pepper
In large pot, heat oil over medium-high heat and sauté onion, carrot and celery until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in cumin. Separate stems from leaves of chard (set leaves aside) and cut stems into 2 inch pieces. Add to onion mixture and cook another 2 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, lentils and stock and bring to a boil. Simmer until lentils are tender, about 25 minutes. Cut chard leaves into thin strips and add to soup. Simmer 5 minutes. Puree about 1 cup of soup mixture and stir into remaining soup. Stir in chicken. Taste for salt and pepper.
Egg Noodles with Lentils and Sesame Butter
Serves 4
1 cup dried brown lentils
2 Tbs. olive oil
11⁄2 cups coarsely chopped yellow onions
11⁄4 cups plus 5 Tbs. cold water
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 cups dry wide egg noodles
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
1⁄4 cup tahini (sesame paste)
1 Tbs. sesame seeds
Submerge lentils in medium bowl filled with cold water. Pick out small rocks and skim off any dirt and old shells that float to surface. Drain.
Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and cook onions, stirring, until browned, about 15 minutes. Set aside.
Place the drained lentils in medium saucepan. Add 11⁄4 cups of water, season with salt and pepper, and cook, covered, over low heat until tender, 20-30 minutes. Stir every 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool in saucepan.
While lentils are cooking, heat water for noodles and cook according to package directions, drain, transfer to a bowl and toss with 1 Tbs. of butter. Cover bowl with a plate or lid to keep warm.
Add remaining 1 Tbs. of butter, remaining 5 Tbs. cold water, browned onions and tahini to the cooked lentils. Mix well and heat through over medium low heat, about 5 minutes, covered.
Place lentil mixture and cooked noodles in a serving bowl and toss together. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve.
Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Faith Kramer. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to [email protected].