I’ve been trying foods lately that reflect Chanukah food traditions, other than latkes and sufganiot, to get a taste for how different cultures celebrate the holiday.
One of my favorites is a Persian herb omelet known as kookoo or kuku. The frittatalike omelet works well as an appetizer, side dish or (untraditionally) even a light entrée.
Another recipe I like is chicken schnitzel, or breaded and fried cutlets. Nothing I read linked the oil-fried chicken dish with Chanukah, but I think it is perfect for the holiday. Central and Eastern European Jews have been making dishes such as this for generations, Sephardic Jews have similar cooking techniques, and Israelis adopted turkey schnitzel as their own during the early years of statehood.
The schnitzel is flavored with the Israeli herb and spice mix za’atar, available in Middle Eastern and kosher food stores. There are many variations, but it usually includes oregano, thyme and other herbs and spices with sesame seeds. Serve the schnitzel with some lemon wedges.
Persian Herb Omelet
Serves 8 as a side dish, 4 as an entrée
Adapted from Gil Marks’ “Olive Trees and Honey”
4 Tbs. vegetable oil, divided
2 cups chopped onions
8 oz. fresh spinach leaves, stemmed and finely chopped
1 cup finely chopped red- or green-leaf lettuce
1 cup finely chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh dill
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh mint
1⁄2 cup chopped walnuts
4 tsp. flour
1 tsp. salt
1⁄2 tsp. grated nutmeg
1⁄2 tsp. turmeric
6 large eggs, lightly beaten
Heat 2 Tbs. oil in a heavy 10-inch fry pan over medium heat. Sauté onions until soft and translucent. Add spinach and lettuce and sauté until wilted, about 2 minutes. Scrape into a large bowl. Add parsley, dill, mint, walnuts, flour, salt, nutmeg and turmeric. Stir in eggs. Mix well.
Reheat the skillet with the remaining 2 Tbs. oil over medium heat. Add the egg mixture. Cover and cook until the bottom is set but the top is still uncooked, about 5 to 6 minutes. Carefully loosen the edges of the omelet. Slide it onto a plate larger than the skillet. Place the skillet over the plate and turn it over so that the browned bottom of the omelet is now on top. Continue cooking until both sides are set and lightly browned. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Chicken Schnitzel
Serves 4-6
2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken breast (or cutlets cut 1⁄4-inch thick)
1⁄2 tsp. salt
1⁄2 tsp. ground black pepper
1 Tbs. green za’atar mix or
1 tsp. sesame seeds, 1 tsp.
ground dried oregano, 1 tsp.
ground dried thyme
1⁄4 tsp. dried red pepper flakes
11⁄2 cups flour
21⁄2 cups panko bread crumbs or matzah meal
1 Tbs. minced lemon zest
3 eggs, beaten
vegetable oil
Slice chicken breasts horizontally into 1⁄4-inch-thick cutlets. Place on a sturdy board, cover with plastic wrap and pound with a meat mallet until very thin. Mix salt, pepper, za’atar, pepper flakes and flour together in a wide, shallow bowl or rimmed plate. Mix bread crumbs and lemon zest together in another. Place eggs in a third.
Pour about 1⁄2 inch oil into a deep fry pan over medium-high heat until a bit of the bread crumbs sizzles.
Dip cutlet in egg until coated, allowing excess to drip back into bowl. Coat on both sides with flour mixture and then crumb mixture. Fry until golden brown on each side (about 2 to 3 minutes per side). Place on paper towel–lined plate to drain. Repeat with each cutlet, adding more oil as needed. Serve hot with lemon wedges.
Faith Kramer is a Bay area food writer. Her columns alternate with those of Louise Fiszer. She blogs her food at www.clickblogappetit.blogspot.com. Contact her at [email protected].