“The incredible, edible egg”: A most fitting tagline for this everyday, mundane food. I would also add the word “delectable,” as the egg is a key ingredient in everything from homey scrambles to ethereal soufflés. Eggs are loaded with protein, low in fat and calories and a wonderful antioxidant.
They come in all sizes, from small to jumbo. Usually eggs come in two colors, white and brown, but if you buy your eggs at a farmers market you can find them in delicate shades of blue and green, sometimes with parts of their nests attached to the shell. Shell color has nothing to do with quality. (If you have never eaten a farm-fresh egg, treat yourself to one … you’ll be spoiled for any other kind.) Kosher cooks love eggs because they can be used with meats and dairy products, rendering them parve.
We consume dozens of eggs during Passover (think matzah brie and sponge cake), but somehow never get tired of them. Fried, baked and boiled, their versatility is unmatched, and can play a starring role in breakfast, lunch and dinner .
Tips: Do not store eggs on refrigerator door, as the temperature is not cold enough. Store eggs in the refrigerator in their cardboard carton. It is a better insulator than plastic egg trays. Test the freshness of an egg by placing it in a bowl or cup of water. If it lies on the bottom it is fresh. If eggs are stored properly they are good for several weeks beyond the date stamped on carton.
Sensuous Scrambled Eggs
Serves 8
8 large eggs, mixed well with whisk
10 Tbs. butter, cut into small pieces
salt
1⁄4 cup snipped fresh chives
Heat some of the butter in a 9- or 10-inch skillet. Turn heat to low and pour eggs in slowly. Stir gently and add more butter to eggs a little at a time while scrambling. Add salt and chives.
Lemon Soufflé
Serves 6
3⁄4 cup sugar, plus extra for preparing soufflé dishes
2 Tbs. potato or cornstarch
1⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice
2 Tbs. fresh orange juice
11⁄2 tsp. grated lemon zest
2 Tbs. orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier or Cointreau
5 large egg whites, at room temperature
1⁄4 tsp. cream of tartar
pinch of salt
confectioners’ sugar
In a small heavy saucepan whisk together 1⁄4 cup sugar and potato or cornstarch. Gradually whisk in 1⁄4 cup water, lemon juice and lemon zest; bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Cook stirring 30 to 45 seconds or until slightly thickened and no longer cloudy. Remove from heat, stir in orange liqueur and let cool to room temperature. (This much can be done as much as 2 days ahead — bring to room temperature before proceeding.)
Position oven rack to lower 1⁄3 and preheat to 350 degrees. Lightly spray or coat inside of 11⁄2 quart soufflé dish or six 11⁄2 cup individual soufflé dishes. Sprinkle with sugar and tap out. In large grease free mixing bowl, beat egg whites until foamy and opaque. Add cream of tartar and salt. Gradually increase mixer speed to high and beat until soft peaks form. Gradually add remaining ½ cup sugar and beat until stiff (not dry) peaks form.
Stir the lemon mixture well. Whisk about 1⁄4 of the beaten egg whites into the lemon mixture. Using a rubber spatula, fold the lemon mixture into the remaining egg whites. Turn into prepared dish (or dishes) and smooth top with spatula.
Place in pan with water 1⁄3 of the way up the sides. Bake until puffed and top feels firm to touch, about 35 minutes for large (25 for individual).
Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve immediately.
Louise Fiszer is a Palo Alto cooking teacher, author and the co-author of “Jewish Holiday Cooking.” Her columns alternate with those of Faith Kramer. Questions and recipe ideas can be sent to j. or to [email protected].