“I’d love to make something different at Rosh Hashanah, but my family won’t let me.”
I heard that comment at a recent gathering of Jewish women. And the woman who said it wasn’t alone, as a number of the attendees said how they would like to try some new recipes during the High Holy Days — but as far as their families are concerned, the holiday dinner menu is immutable, unchangeable and very much anticipated.
I can understand that. There is a certain sense of “rightness” having the same foods every holiday season. Plus, for some of us, it’s one of the few times of the year we might fuss with kreplach, make gefilte fish, or cook brisket or other Jewish specialties.
I suggested to the women that they make all the usual dishes, but add in something new — such as black-eyed peas (an important part of Sephardic Rosh Hashanah tradition, symbolic of our wish that God multiply our merits). Or perhaps just alter one of the family’s standards to reflect today’s lighter tastes — such as a less-sweet tzimmes that still serves to remind us to have a sweet new year.
Tsimmes with a Twist — Savory-Sweet with Chicken
Serves 6
1 cup dried apricot halves
1 cup dried pitted prunes
2 cups boiling water
21⁄2 lbs. boneless, skinless chicken thighs
2 Tbs. canola or other vegetable oil
1 cup thinly sliced onions
1 Tbs. minced garlic
1⁄4 tsp. red pepper flakes
1⁄4 tsp. salt
1⁄4 tsp. ground black pepper
1⁄4 tsp. ground cumin
1 cup 1⁄4-inch-thick carrot slices
11⁄4 Tbs. soy sauce
Cover apricots and prunes with boiling water. Let steep until softened (about 20 minutes depending on fruit). Drain, reserving liquid.
Cut chicken into 11⁄2-inch chunks. Add oil to large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium high heat. Brown chicken chunks, working in batches if necessary. Remove from pan and reserve. Add onions, put heat on medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally until softened, well browned and caramelized, about 25 minutes. Raise heat to medium-high, add garlic and sauté until golden. Add red pepper flakes, salt, black pepper, cumin, carrots, soy sauce, apricots, prunes and reserved soaking water and stir well, incorporating any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Bring to a simmer. Add chicken pieces and any accumulated juices. Stir well.
Cover and keep at a simmer, stirring occasionally until chicken and carrots are cooked through (about 30 minutes). Taste and correct seasoning. For thicker sauce, remove solids and keep warm and raise heat under sauce and cook uncovered until reduced. Serve over noodles or potatoes.
Black-Eyed Pea Salad
Serves 4-6
1⁄2 cup diced carrots (1⁄4-inch dice)
1⁄2 cup diced celery (1⁄4-inch dice)
1⁄2 cup sliced scallions (1⁄4-inch slices)
1⁄2 cup diced red bell pepper (1⁄4-inch dice)
2 cups cooked black-eyed peas, drained
1 Tbs. grated lemon zest
4 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
4 Tbs. canola or other vegetable oil
1⁄4 tsp. salt
1 tsp. (or to taste) siracha, harissa or other chili paste sauce
Combine the carrots, celery, scallions, bell pepper, black-eyed peas and lemon zest. Mix. Make the dressing in a separate bowl, combining juice, oil, salt and siracha. Mix well. Stir into vegetables. Taste and correct seasonings. The salad should not taste “hot” but should have a slight zing. Serve at room temperature.
Faith Kramer is a Bay Area food writer. Her columns alternate with those of Louise Fiszer. She blogs at www.clickblogappetit.com. Contact her at [email protected].