Pumpkins long have been a culinary fascination of mine, especially once I learned that this New World food became a Sephardic and Italian Jewish favorite as early as the 1500s.
Now that the orange winter squashes are in season, skip the can and use a whole pumpkin. Start by choosing a variety grown for cooking, with such names as “sugar pie, “sugar baby” or “cheese.” Select one that seems heavy for its size and has its stem attached.
To use, cut a lid at the stem end. For the Spicy Pumpkin Chili, use a knife to trim away the outside peel, then cut the pumpkin shell in half vertically, scoop out seeds and use a sturdy spoon to scrape out the strings, then cut in chunks. For the Oven-Roasted Pumpkin Pumpkin Pie, leave the skin on and cut in half vertically. Clean out seeds and strings. Place halves cut side down on an oiled baking tray. Bake at 350 degrees until tender when pierced with a fork. Discard peel. Mash flesh into purée until almost smooth, but still a little chunky.
One pound of whole pumpkin yields about four cups of chunks or a cup of baked purée, but can vary greatly.
Oven-Roasted Pumpkin Pumpkin Pie
Makes 2 pies
4 egg whites
2 eggs
2 cups baked pumpkin purée (see introduction)
1½ cups evaporated milk
¾ cup brown sugar
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
¼ tsp. ground allspice
¼ tsp. salt
2 unbaked 9-inch pie crusts (or 1 deep-dish crust); do not defrost if frozen
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Beat egg whites and whole eggs together, and stir in purée, milk, sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, allspice and salt. Pour into crusts. Place pie tins on baking trays. Put in oven. Bake 15 minutes. Lower heat to 350 degrees. Bake for an additional 40-50 minutes, until a knife inserted in center comes out clean. Let cool before serving.
Spicy Pumpkin Chili
Serves 8
2 Tbs. oil
2 cups chopped onion
1 Tbs. minced garlic
1 minced jalapeño pepper (see note)
1 cup chopped bell pepper
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped carrots
1 lb. ground turkey
½ tsp. salt, or to taste
½ tsp. ground black pepper, or to taste
2 Tbs. chili powder, or to taste
1½ tsp. ground cumin
1½ tsp. dried oregano
2 cups chopped mushrooms
3 cups vegetable broth or water
2 Tbs. tomato paste
2-15 oz. cans chopped tomatoes with liquid
4 cups of peeled 1-inch pumpkin chunks
2 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, from can (see note)
14.5 oz. can white beans, rinsed and drained
½ cup chopped cilantro
Heat oil in large, deep pot. Add onion and sauté until softened. Add garlic, jalapeño, bell pepper, celery and carrots. Stir often and cook until beginning to soften. Add turkey and sauté until brown. Add salt, pepper, chili powder, cumin and oregano. Sauté 1 minute. Add mushrooms and sauté 2 minutes. Add broth, tomato paste, tomatoes with liquid, pumpkin and the chipotles.
Cook covered, stirring occasionally, until pumpkin begins to soften. Add beans, stir well, replace cover and cook for another 20 minutes or until the pumpkin is almost cooked through. Take the cover off and simmer until pumpkin is done and the chili is thickened (about 4 minutes).
Using a fork and without removing the pumpkin from the chili, mash about a quarter of the cooked chunks into the chili. Stir. Taste. Correct seasoning as needed. Serve sprinkled with cilantro.
Note: Seed jalapeño if desired. After using the two chipotle peppers from can, place remainder with sauce in airtight container in refrigerator. They will last for several weeks.
Faith Kramer is a Bay Area food writer. Her columns alternate with those of Josie A.G. Shapiro. Faith blogs at www.clickblogappetit.com. Contact her at [email protected].