Food coverage is supported by a generous donation from Susan and Moses Libitzky.
The Jewish food of Mexico with its intersection of local, Sephardic, Mizrahi and Ashkenazi flavors is a favorite of mine.
“Sabor Judío: The Jewish Mexican Cookbook” explores dishes such as Matzah Chilaquiles, Cumin Rose Kibbe, Brisket Tacos in Three Chile Salsa with Phyllis’ Rhubarb, Caldo Verde with Corn and Matzah Balls, Snapper Ceviche con Maror, Plantain Chile Kugel and so much more.
The cookbook, published last fall, also delves into the history of Jews in Mexico and the personal experience of authors Ilan Stavans and Margaret Boyle, as well as family legacies. You can hear more from Boyle in person at a free local event. She will speak at 6:30 p.m. Tuesday, July 8, at Omnivore Books, 3885a Cesar Chavez Ave., S.F.
The book’s Falafel Taquitos recipe adapted below is a tasty addition to summer parties and barbecues.
Falafel Taquitos
Adapted from “Sabor Judío”
Makes 12 taquitos
- ½ lb. dried chickpeas
- ½ medium yellow onion
- 2 Tbs. roughly chopped parsley
- 2 Tbs. roughly chopped cilantro
- 2 medium garlic cloves, roughly chopped (see notes)
- 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1 tsp. ground cumin
- ½ tsp. ground coriander
- ⅛ tsp. cayenne
- Vegetable oil, for brushing
- 12 (6-inch) corn tortillas or 12 (6 or 8-inch) flour tortillas (see notes)
- ½ cup tahini (room temperature and well stirred)
- ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
- ¼ cup cold water, plus as needed
- Purchased or homemade salsa, z’hug or harissa, optional
Between 12 hours and 24 hours before making taquitos, soak chickpeas in enough room-temperature water to cover them. Check water level occasionally and add water as needed. (After soaking, the chickpeas will still have a bit of crunch, but you should be able to bite cleanly through them without much resistance.) Rinse and drain. Place in food processor with onion, parsley, cilantro, garlic, salt, cumin, coriander and cayenne.
Pulse, scraping down as needed, until textured paste forms. Taste and add more salt, if needed. Transfer to bowl and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Heat oven to 400 degrees and brush 9×13-inch baking dish with about 1 Tbs. of oil.
Lay 1 tortilla on a flat surface and place a scant ¼ cup of falafel mix all along one edge, shaping into a line. Roll up tortilla tightly and place seam-side down in greased baking dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas and filling.
Brush tops of tortillas with oil. Bake about 10 minutes. Brush again. Bake another 5-10 minutes for corn tortillas, 8-12 minutes for flour tortillas, or until crispy and golden.
While taquitos are baking, make the tahini sauce by stirring tahini, lemon juice and water in a small bowl until smooth, adding water by teaspoon as needed.
Serve warm with tahini and salsa or hot sauce.
Notes: My family of garlic lovers preferred 4 medium cloves. I also added 1 tsp. minced garlic to tahini. “Sabor Judío” calls for corn tortillas, but I found that only the very freshest and thinnest roll well. I suggest flour tortillas instead. I tested supermarket street taco (6-inch) and fajita (8-inch) flour tortillas and was pleased with the results. Serve the larger ones cut in half, if desired.
Make ahead: The uncooked falafel mixture can be prepared in advance and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before rolling in tortillas.
The taquitos are best cooked right before serving but can be made up to a day ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature and heat until warm and crisped in 350 degree oven in single layer on ungreased baking tray.