When I have the feeling I’m in for an exhausting week without much time to cook, I embrace ceviche. There is nothing easier under the culinary sun. Buy a firm fish like paiche, sea bass, striped bass, grouper or sole. Cut in cubes, sprinkle with salt, and cover with lime juice. You can leave it alone (refrigerated) for 24 hours and up to three days. After that it’s a sprinkle of herbs, some finely diced red onion, and you’re good to go.
When you hit the fish market to net your product, be sure the fish you’re buying doesn’t smell fishy. Here’s another easy way to test freshness: Press on the fillet. Does your finger leave a dent in the flesh? If so, move on. Dented fish is a sign of impending decomposition.
If Jews had had more money for plentiful amounts of fish back in the day, it’s possible our friend the gefilte would never have been born. In Jewish tradition, we just can’t say no to someone who needs a nosh, and gefilte must have been created in part to make one fish stretch to feed a full table. But in a contest that pits chopped-up fish lightened with bread crumbs and egg against whole pieces of tender ceviche, I’m afraid my vote lies with the ceviche.
Archaeological evidence suggests ceviche was in high fashion 2,000 years ago. Its origins most often are traced back to Peru, although IMHO, there is no better kosher meal. It also makes for excellent, do-ahead decadence, and it’s perfect with guacamole and chips. And maybe a little edamame hummus, too.
Impossibly Lazy Classic Ceviche
Serves 2-4 (main dish or appetizer)
1 lb. firm sustainable fish, such as paiche, sea bass or striped bass
1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt
2⁄3 cup fresh lime juice (5-6 limes)
3 Tbs. red onion, diced small
2 Tbs. cilantro, coarsely chopped
Cut fish into 3⁄4-inch cubes. Transfer to wide, sealable container. Sprinkle with salt. Cover with lime juice. Seal container. Refrigerate 24 to 72 hours. Shake container occasionally if lime juice doesn’t cover fish completely. Before serving, toss with red onion and cilantro.
Simple Guacamole
Makes about 2 cups
5 small or 3 large avocados
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. fresh garlic, minced
2 Tbs. cilantro, coarsely chopped
1⁄4 tsp. ground cumin
1⁄4 tsp. salt
plenty of freshly ground black pepper
Mash up the avocados using a fork or potato masher. Add lime juice, garlic, cilantro, cumin, salt and black pepper and mash again. Serve with chips.
Edamame Hummus
Makes about 2 cups
2 cups shelled edamame
1⁄2 cup salsa verde (from a jar or can)
1⁄2 cup tehina
1⁄4 cup olive oil
1⁄4 cup lemon juice
1⁄4 cup water
2 cloves fresh garlic, peeled
1⁄2 tsp. cumin
1⁄2 tsp. salt
plenty of freshly ground black pepper
1⁄2 cup packed parsley leaves
Buy the bag of frozen edamame kernels for this one. You don’t want to spend all that time removing edamame from their pods. Defrost the kernels by leaving them in the fridge overnight or running under cold water till thawed. In a food processor, pulse together all ingredients until smooth. This recipe is exceptionally delicious with al dente broccoli and pita chips.
Josie A.G. Shapiro won the 2013 Man-O Manischewitz Cook-Off, is the co-author of “The Lazy Gourmet” and works at the JCC of San Francisco. Her columns alternate with those of Faith Kramer. Her website is www.thechickencontests.com