There is no hechsher-branded Asian fish sauce on the market, but that shouldn’t stop you from playing with Vietnamese-inspired food — the best of which relies on this pungent condiment.
Fish sauce is made from fermented anchovies. Nothing about it is inherently traif. And yet, in my fish-processing fantasies, I can imagine that the net that catches all those teeny fish and other mysteries can create quite a kashrut headache when you’re fermenting on a wide scale.
Thanks to some deep Googling, I caught the gist of how to make fish sauce at home and then came up with a recipe (which you’ll find in the online version of this column). You can use it to make kosher fish sauce all your own. Or you can embrace packaged kosher-style fish sauce without the hechsher. Either way, these recipes make cooking Vietnamese style at home pretty fuss free.
Five Spice Bahn Mi
Serves 4
1/2 cup mayonnaise
3 Tbs. lime juice
1 1/2 Tbs. fish sauce
1 tsp. plus 1 Tbs. brown sugar
1 1/2 tsp. Chinese Five Spice powder
3 cups shredded, cooked chicken (approx. 1 rotisserie chicken)
2/3 cup rice vinegar
2 tsp. salt
3/4 cup carrots, cut in a very thin julienne
3/4 cup daikon, cut in a very thin julienne
1 soft baguette, split
1 cup cilantro leaves
1 jalapeño pepper, very thinly sliced
In a medium bowl, mix together mayonnaise, lime juice, fish sauce, 1 tsp. brown sugar and Chinese Five Spice powder. Toss chicken with mayonnaise mixture.
In a separate medium bowl, combine rice vinegar, salt and remaining 1 Tbs. brown sugar. Add carrots and daikon and toss. Let sit at least 10 minutes and up to overnight in fridge.
Toast split baguette in an oven heated to 375 degrees until lightly golden.
Strain the pickled daikon and carrots. Layer chicken, drained pickled daikon and carrots, cilantro and jalapeño on one half of baguette. Close baguette sandwich and cut into 4 portions to serve.
Vietnamese Steak and Herb Salad
Inspired by Melissa Clark’s “What’s for Dinner” column
Serves 4
1/3 cup fish sauce
1/3 cup fresh lime juice
1 Tbs. brown sugar
2 Tbs. Sriracha sauce
1 flank steak, about 11⁄2 lbs. black pepper
3 cups mixed baby greens
1/2 cup torn mint leaves
1/2 cup cilantro leaves
4 Persian cucumbers, sliced
1 pint tiny cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup red onion, thinly sliced
2 Tbs. olive oil
4 Tbs. roasted peanuts, chopped
In a small bowl, combine the fish sauce, lime juice, brown sugar and Sriracha sauce. Place flank steak in a large sealable glass container or sealable gallon bag. Pour all but 1⁄4 cup sauce over steak, and reserve 1⁄4 cup sauce refrigerated until needed. Refrigerate steak overnight and up to 2 days. Bring meat to room temperature before cooking.
Prepare grill for high-heat cooking, or preheat broiler and arrange broiler tray 6 inches below heat source. Remove steak from marinade and season with generous amounts of pepper on both sides of meat. Grill or broil 5-6 minutes per side for medium. Transfer steak to platter and let stand at least 10 minutes and up to one hour. Slice steak across grain into thin, diagonal slices.
In a large salad bowl, toss together mixed greens, mint, cilantro, cucumbers, cherry tomatoes and red onion. Mix reserved 1/4 cup sauce with olive oil. Dress salad to taste. Arrange sliced steak over salad and garnish with peanuts.
Do-it-Yourself Fish Sauce
Makes 3 cups
3 oz. anchovies, mashed up
2 cloves garlic, mashed
1 Tbs. kosher salt
1 Tbs. brown sugar
3 cups cold water
2 Tbs. tamarind paste
1 tsp. grated lemon zest
Pulverize anchovies, garlic and salt in a small food processor. Transfer to a large glass jar or sealable glass container. Add remaining ingredients. Cover tightly and leave at room temperature for 2 days. Transfer to refrigerator for 3-6 weeks. Strain and store resulting fish sauce in the fridge.
Josie A.G. Shapiro won the 2013 Man-O Manischewitz Cook-Off, is the co-author of “The Lazy Gourmet” and works at the JCC of San Francisco. Her columns alternate with those of Faith Kramer. Her website is www.thechickencontests.com.