How Jewish food migrates from one region to another is something Tina Wasserman knows a lot about. That’s partly because she is the author of the cookbook “Entrée to Judaism: A Culinary Exploration of the Jewish Diaspora.” She also understands it because she’s experienced it firsthand.
When the Dallas-based food writer moved from New York to Texas in the 1970s, she was surprised by the lack of taiglach, a honey-drenched pastry, and round challah, both traditional Ashkenazi Rosh Hashanah customs. After writing and teaching about them, they are now found in the Longhorn State. To complete the circle, she was asked to teach about Texas-style fajitas in a cooking class at a New York City Jewish community center.
“If you look at it, the distance from New York to Texas is greater than Turkey to Spain,” Wasserman says. The story of Jews bringing old favorites to new lands and adapting the foods they find there to fit their religious needs has long fascinated her.
Wasserman, the food columnist for Reform Judaism Magazine, will be making several local appearances. On March 20 at 2 p.m. she will be at Congregation Shir Shalom in Sonoma. Call (707) 935-3636 for information. She will speak at 7 p.m. March 22 at the Bureau of Jewish Education Jewish Community Library in San Francisco. Call (415) 567-3327 ext. 703 for information. On March 24 she’ll appear at 7 p.m. at the Oshman Family Jewish Community Center. The contact number is (650) 223-8700.
Here are a few recipes, edited for space, from her cookbook. Wasserman shared the Syrian compote recipe since apricots and nuts are all California crops.
Greek-Style Baked Fish with Tomato Sauce
and Feta Cheese (Psari Saganaki)
Serves 4
1 lb. branzino fillets or tuna steaks
juice of 1⁄2 lemon
4 Tbs. olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, diced
2 large cloves garlic, peeled, cut in half
28-oz. can crushed tomatoes
1⁄2 tsp. sugar
1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano
salt and pepper to taste
1-2 Tbs. ouzo or other licorice liqueur
2 Tbs. brandy
1 cup cubed feta cheese
Place the fish in a glass dish, add lemon juice and coat well. Set aside. Heat 2 Tbs. of oil in a large saucepan. Add onion and garlic. Cook until lightly golden. Add tomatoes, sugar, oregano, salt and pepper. Cook uncovered over moderate heat for 20 minutes or until thickened. Remove garlic.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Heat a heavy skillet or sauté pan (do not use nonstick) for 15 seconds. Add the remaining oil and heat for 15 seconds. Drain the fish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place in hot skillet. Cook over moderately high heat for 2 minutes until the fish is lightly golden on one side. Turn the fish over and add the ouzo and the brandy to the frying pan. Heat for 10 seconds and then ignite the liquids. When the flames die out, place the fish in a 2-quart oven-proof serving dish. Cover with the warm tomato sauce and top with the cheese. Place in oven and bake until the cheese is melted but not browned. Serve with pasta or rice.
Syrian Apricot Compote in Rose Water Syrup
Serves 4
6 oz. dried apricots
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
1⁄2 tsp. rose water
1⁄2 cup pistachios
1⁄4 cup slivered almonds, toasted
Combine apricots with water in a microwaveable bowl. Microwave on high for 2 minutes and then let the apricots sit in the water for 2 hours, or until soft. Drain, reserving the soaking water. Measur e 1⁄2 cup of soaking water and place in a clean microwaveable bowl. Add the sugar and microwave on high for 1 minute or until sugar is dissolved. Set aside to cool. Stir in rose water. Put apricots in serving dish. Add the pistachios, almonds and enough of the rose water and sugar mixture to partially cover the fruit. Stir to combine and chill until ready to serve by itself or as a topping for ice cream, yogurt or sponge cake.
Faith Kramer is a Bay Area food writer. Her columns alternate with those of Louise Fiszer. She blogs her food at www.clickblogappetit.com. Contact her at [email protected].