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When adding pumpkin to your challah recipe for an autumn-inspired treat, you can go either “savory and unusual” or “sweet and comforting.”

This recipe for Savory Pumpkin Challah is definitely in the former category. It’s flavored with cumin and dried chilis, and it goes well with hearty soups and stews (especially those with Middle Eastern or Mexican influences). To make it milder, use half amounts of cayenne and chilis.

The sweet variation (see below) is actually not overly sweet, which means it’s good with dinner. But for a morning treat, it can be eaten with cream cheese, pumpkin butter or chopped pecans. Even better,  use all three.

For vegan versions, substitute nondairy milk or agave for the egg wash.

Savory Pumpkin Challah

Serves 6 to 8

• Packet (2¼ tsp.) active dry yeast
• 1 tsp. plus 2 Tbs. sugar
• ½ cup warm water (100 to 110 degrees)
• 1 cup canned or homemade pumpkin puree
• ¼ cup water
• 2 Tbs. vegetable oil, plus extra
• 1½ tsp. salt
• 1 tsp. cumin
• ¼ tsp. cayenne
• 1 tsp. red chili flakes
• 3 to 4 cups bread flour, plus extra
• 1 large egg, beaten
• ½ tsp. paprika
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. everything bagel topping
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. shelled, roasted pumpkin seeds (salted or unsalted)

Stir yeast and 1 tsp. sugar into ½ cup warm water. Let sit 10 minutes, until foamy. In a large bowl, combine pumpkin with ¼ cup water, 2 Tbs. oil, 2 Tbs. sugar, salt, cumin, cayenne and chili flakes. Stir in 3 cups flour, 1 cup at a time. If a shaggy ball of dough has not formed, mix in flour until it does.

Flour work surface and hands. Knead dough about 8 to 10 minutes, adding flour as needed, until smooth and a bit tacky. Pinching dough should feel like pinching an earlobe. (It will be softer and stickier than regular challah dough.)

Oil a large bowl. Turn dough in bowl to coat with oil. Cover with towel. Set in a warm, dry place until doubled in size (about 1 hour, timing varies).

Punch dough down. Knead 2 to 3 minutes on floured surface. Divide into 3 equal pieces. Let rest a few minutes. Roll into 3 ropes of 18 inches each.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Lightly oil paper. Place ropes 1 inch apart and parallel to each other lengthwise in center of baking sheet, with short edge of sheet facing you. Pinch the three ropes together at top end. Pick up rope on your right, pass over the center rope and place it so that it’s now the center rope. Take the left rope, pass it over the center rope and place down. Repeat until braided (but not too tight or loose). Pinch together at bottom. Turn both pinched ends under. Cover with towel. Let rise until doubled in size (about 45 minutes, timing varies).

About 20 minutes before baking challah, heat oven to 350 degrees. Once loaf has doubled, mix egg with paprika. Brush over top and sides of challah. Sprinkle with 1 Tbs. everything bagel topping and 1 Tbs. pumpkin seeds. Place baking sheet in oven.

After 10 minutes, brush egg mixture over any newly exposed areas, sprinkling those with 1 tsp. everything mix and 1 tsp. pumpkin seeds. Bake an additional 15 to 25 minutes, rotating in oven if necessary. It’s ready when it’s golden brown, the bottom sounds hollow when tapped, and an instant-read thermometer says 190 degrees. Cool on wire rack.

Sweet variation: For dough, use an extra tablespoon of sugar for a total of 3 Tbs. (Use 4 Tbs. for even sweeter challah.) Omit cumin, cayenne and chili flakes and use 1 tsp. pumpkin pie spice. For egg wash, omit paprika. For topping, use 2 Tbs. sugar mixed with ½ tsp. ground cinnamon, reserving 2 tsp. for the second sprinkle.

Note: When purchasing pumpkin puree, choose one without additional spices.